Winter route from the lower trailhead. BLUF:
- To reach the summit requires a climb, not just a hike.
- The climb is inherently dangerous, which can only be mitigated by having knowledge, gear, and a capacity for risk evaluation. With those three things applied, it can be quite enjoyable and rewarding.
- Specifically, everyone should be actively using an ice axe in the chute and above. If you've never used one before, at least watch some videos and practice the grips and motions beforehand. Even the most experienced mountaineer (which I am far from) who may not really need an axe is going to be setting an example for an inexperienced audience on this mountain. So set a good one.
- If you want to glissade, be careful. The tracks are starting to melt through to rock in places, so take note on the way up of areas to avoid on the way down. Never glissade with any kind of traction on your feet or without an ice axe, and make sure you can stop within your sight distance.
Details:
I reached the lower trailhead at 9:45am after a dusty drive in my intrepid 2006 Camry (2WD, low clearance). A few small potholes on the road but smooth sailing overall. The main parking area was already full and folks had begun to park on the side of the road—or in some cases take their half out of the middle—above and below it. Started hiking at 10am on a trail that is in excellent condition with no obstacles. Passed a couple dozen people headed up, including one large group (Mountaineers?), who all were courteous.
Snow begins abruptly just below the base of the chute, which I reached in a bit under an hour. The morning clouds had cleared and the entire main gully was visible. Saw some people making good choices (turning around upon realizing this part was beyond their level of preparation) and some people making, er, less-good choices (not doing that). I took a break for a snack and to switch to winter mode (axe out, poles stowed, spikes on, gloves on, etc.) and headed up at 11:10.
The chute was pretty mushy by this time of day, and there were plenty of steps already punched in. Still, some sections are near 45 degrees so caution is warranted. Even with spikes I was slipping out of steps when I got complacent and stopped kicking in. From the top of the chute (where there is a fantastic bowl in which to practice glissading and self-arresting if you desire), it's another steep 400 feet to the summit in two pitches. Don't climb up in the glissade paths, especially the deep ones with blind corners.
Summited at noon to intermittent but increasing cloud cover providing fleeting views of nearby peaks and valleys. About a dozen people in the summit area with a family of goats lounging around nearby. Donned my raingear and glissaded directly off the summit twenty minutes later. Possibly questionable runout on this highest path, so be aware. The second glissade is absolutely bomber, with a deep track, a couple good turns, and excellent runout. Just make sure everyone is clear before you go down, as there is no way to roll out of it and self-arresting within it puts you at risk of someone else clobbering you from above.
By the time I reached the top of the main chute, the clouds had moved in and obscured visibility to about 1/3 of the way down. The steep uppermost glissade track has a portion melted through to the rock, so I skipped that part and got to practice my plunge-stepping. An unfortunate incident had occurred in the chute a bit further below (while I was on the summit, I think); the injured climber was just being carried out of the glissade path and stabilized when I arrived, so I opted to continue on foot past that point before hopping in. Reduced visibility meant keeping my speed in check, but overall the rest of the trip down was smooth sliding, with a couple practice self-arrests while I was at it. Within the last 10 feet I managed to rip my rain pants open with the pick of my axe. Sigh. I don't remember exactly how many upward-bound people I passed while going down, but it was a lot.
Another 10-minute break at the bottom to switch back out of winter mode. Only a couple folks on the trail going up as I headed back down to the car, which I reached at 1:45pm, 80 minutes after leaving the summit. Gaia says 6.00 miles, 3,100'.
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