Here's the TL:DR
This trail is completely underrated
The larches will only be good for a few more days
The road is in good shape
Parking was packed by 8:30
Bring your own TP
We arrived at the trail head at 8:30am to a full lot. Parking had extended on the left an 1/8th of a mile down the road. The bathroom is usable, however there is no TP so you better have your own. The road is in good condition, no major potholes, wash-boarding, but a lot of that has been compacted down by other cars. There is enough room to pass(narrowly) so that's a nice change from some mountain roads.
Fortunately for us all the people in those cars were bound for lake Ingalls. The turnoff for Esmeralda basin is marked less than ¼ mile into the trail, everyone going right is going to lake Ingalls, so we went left.
The trail is a really gentle climb, slowly making it's way up the valley. The mountain views start immediately and get better from there. There are a few switchbacks but like I said, very gentle. We passed some beautiful golden meadows and yellow ferns. The larches aren't the only fall color on this trail!
We also did have the trail to ourselves 95% of the time. We passed less than 24 people and dogs going in and out. Unlike lake Ingalls this larch hike is dog friendly, so just about everyone we saw had their fur-baby, and they were all adorable!
This trail is also apparently graded for livestock, and we did see evidence of people having ridden their horses all the way to the lake. Must be an amazing trail-ride!
After a few steeper switchbacks up the scree slope we came to the sign for lake Ann. Keep an eye out, it's a nice wood sign on a tree on the right. The Esmeralda trail continues to make a long loop, so if you keep going that way have fun!
Once we started climbing to gain the ridge above lake Ann the trail gets steep. Halfway up it levels off into some pretty meadows, followed by the final ascent. I would rate the ascent as moderate, nothing crazy, but a beginner would probably find this section steeper. At the flat meadows we also saw a few really nice little camp spots.
This hike and lake are UNDERRATED! I gasped when I got to the top of the ridge and looked down into the basin/valley and the lake. The lake is bigger than it appears in pictures, and is a really unique mint color. The sheer eroding side of the mountains(Fortune peak and Ingalls Peaks) are amazing. The valley is sweeping, and there is a fantastic viewpoint to see for miles.
And did I mention the larches! You do not see them coming until you gain the top of the ridge. All of the larches have hidden in this valley and are nowhere else along the trail. So that moment when you reach the high point is really magical.
The larches are at or just past their peak. They will not last much longer. The larch at the top is perfectly golden.
We didn't go down to the lake(for timing reasons, saving it for another adventure). But the top of the ridge is more than reward enough. And did I mention we were alone?! A few other hikers with their pups passed us on their way down to the lake. But it is a special feeling being at a larch hike at peak season and having it all to yourself.
Also the scramble up the ridge to the top of Fortune mountain looks pretty fun(once again, an adventure for another day).
I've been on a lot of hikes, and said this many times. But I have to say that of all the places I've been this applies the most to this lake, “Pictures do not do it justice”. This is one you need to see to appreciate, it is gorgeous, and the pictures just don't capture the scale of this insane valley and mountain slopes, or even the size of the lake. Have I gushed about this trail enough?
We hiked back down, really easy descent. The hardest part is the rocky sections on the lake Ann spur. After that it's smooth sailing.
Another thing about this trail is the serpentine. These slopes erode serpentine, so there are a lot of really cool examples of the mineral along the trail, all shades of green.
The parking lot and road was insane upon our return. Saw some really creative parking at the lot, and the road did have people parking on both sides. Most people obeyed the rule to only park on the left, but not all. Didn't have trouble getting out so that was nice.
All in all an amazing trail, underrated, and full of magical larches!
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