This was a very popular trailhead (the Esmeralda Basin one) with cars parked at 10:30am about 1/4 mile from the TH plus in an extra row down center of the lot, and actual tours gathering. But luckily 90% of the people were going up a different trail, probably Ingalls. Which may be prettier but the way up to Lake Ann was still very nice and a sweet little pocket of larches (just right around the lake) that feels more intimate and connecting. Not being swamped with fellow fall color seekers was worth a milder display if you ask me. Only myself and another solo-camper stayed at the lake.
The trail up was entirely snow-free until you crest the ridge of Fortune Pass and see Lake Ann, which still has/had (may or may not be all melted now until they get a new snow) a light dusting. The steep trail down from the ridge had the thickest with about an inch that has become icy and a little sketchy to go down, but on the warmer Saturday it was still slushy enough for decent traction as long as you go slow. Sunday morning it was just ice, so a bit more risky yet a very brief stretch. It was not worth getting spikes out for me. Just be careful and bring spikes or other traction just in case you do need it and new snow falls, especially in earlier sections of the trail up the ridge which are also steep and rocky. Over all the trail is well maintained and very wide before the turn to Lake Ann. Nice open forest of pines, Douglas fir, and hemlock on the way up, which is a nice change to the usual Olympics dominated by Douglas fir that gets a little monotonous. A little fall color is still in the shrubs and even strawberry on the way up, but the larches by the lake were quickly losing their leaves. Expect they will be naked in a week or so.
Note that in the lake basin was very gusty windy, way more so than the rest of the trial, so be prepared with some more layers and extra securing of your tent if you stay the night. There are about 4 or 5 camping areas but some have fire rings, which should not be used up at these elevations.
*Reminder from a firefighter & ecologist- these high elevation forests (above 3,500') can't sustain wood harvesting and are not fire-adapted ecotypes. So refrain from making a fire even though it's cold, unless you brought your own wood, and in winter. Just not worth risking the health of these areas we are all out there to enjoy. I was pleased to not find a bunch of trash along the trail or around the camp sites. So bravo team!
Beyond the lake the trial continues to another entrance which was muddier but also snow-free and has some other angle views of the larch area. I didn't head all the way down to other TH. I went back to enjoy a leisurely subtle sunset over the far ridge and some wind-swept stars then a cozy flapping tent for the evening.
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