Bottom Line:
The trail goes from 0-100% snow-covered over the course of ~1/4 mile at about mile 2. The last mile to the lake has deep (up to ~5 feet) uneven snow with deep tree wells and undulating up-and-down piles formed by wind and the uneven melting due to terrain and tree cover. Microspikes and poles strongly recommended. Postholing was not too bad, but by 4pm the snow was too soft to ascend above Upper Crystal Lake to reach the gap. I think an ice axe would have been required anyway, but it was even too soft to get sufficiently above the lake to see Rainier. The lake is mostly frozen. CAUTION: The shore boundary is misleading; if you are standing on flat "ground" you are actually on the lake, and there is the possibility of breaking through.
Stats:
- Distance: 7 miles
- Vertical: 2350 ft
- Duration: 3-1/2 hours
- Road/Parking: Heading south on Hwy 401, the trailhead is ~1/2 mile short of the turnoff to Sunrise, with obvious parking on both sides of the road for dozens of cars; today, a 1/2 dozen cars and lots of parking; I displayed my National Park Pass, not sure if required; no toilet
- Weather: Sunny, no wind, 60s to low 70s, BEAUTIFUL; quite warm at the lake with all the reflecting snow and exposure, making the snow ascending above the lake very soft (kind of like hiking uphill in sand)
- Water: There is water for filtering near the trailhead, and after ~2 miles there are a number of small creeks. There are spots of open water near the shoreline at the lake for filtering as well. I carried water but could have made do with less and filtered more.
- Flora/Fauna: No flowers on this trail yet - it is early! But did see some hares with a white/brown mixed coat, and lots of butterflies.
- Trail: Dogs are not allowed on this trail. The trail starts with a beautiful waterfall - I regretted not having brought my tripod to get an extended shot. The trail climbs pretty relentlessly via switchbacks for the first ~2 miles, hugging the creek originating from Crystal Lakes. Just short of 1 mile, there is a good lookout with excellent views of Mt Rainier - great vantage for Little Tahoma and Panhandle Glacier! The trail is in excellent condition - there were rangers out today, and the last of the down trees were cleared. It is smooth and well-maintained like one would expect a front-country National Park trail to be. The trail is lovely with lots of hanging lichen and a fairly rich understory (having never been logged). The trail transitions from 0 to 100% snow-covered over ~1/4 mile at ~2 miles. Microspikes and poles are really required after this point, and I am saying that as someone that often takes them but does not put them on. Uneven melt patterns have left undulating piles of snow up to ~5 feet with deep tree wells, and some steep slopes. The trail flattens out at a junction between lower/upper Crystal Lake. The lower lake has thawed, while the upper lake is mostly frozen (CAUTION: thin ice). Lots of interesting rain runnels and colorful snow algae as you head around the lake, and of course the enchanting pools of blue meltwater near the shore. I tried to head up to the PCT and the Gap, but it was late in the day, and the 4pm snow was too soft to make it up. There was a hard freeze overnight and there were still firm surfaces in the trees, but the lake basin was very warm and beautiful with all the reflecting snow. The coming rain event may melt out the upper lake very quickly in the coming days - hurry if you want to see this transition time. CAUTION: For anyone heading up to Crystal Peak, large fringing cornices are visible from the lake below
- Takeaway: Good time to hike this trail. It is likely to be busy this summer as folks are surprised by the reservation requirement to get up to Sunrise and look for an alternative. This is a great fall hike - good color, and with a dusting of snow it is magical. Autumn will likely be my next visit ;)
The attached 4K video captures parts of the trail, Mt Rainier, the upper lake basin, and colorful meltwater and algae :)
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