Completed this loop counterclockwise in a long day.
Got an early start to avoid the heat. Parked at Hummocks trailhead, road to Johnston ridge was closed right there. Then walked the road to the south Coldwater trailhead. Taking off up the ridge it was initially brushy in places and quite muggy.
Nice views after breaking out of the bushes. Not long after passing by the destroyed equipment, three bull elk crossed the trail in on the hillside in front of me. Pretty cool, this is one of the few PNW areas where I see more animals than people.
Shortly before Ridge camp there was a stretch with the most amazing salmon berry crop I’ve ever seen. It was like picking at a farm. Ridge camp was dry and lonely, not a place I’d ever want to camp.
Passing underneath Coldwater Peak, two large herds of elk were visible. Above St Helen’s lake it starts to feel more alpine and less dry. passed a pair of backpackers, two of the 5 people I saw the whole day outside of the families at Coldwater lake.
There were several herds of goats hanging out on the rocks near Mount Margaret.
The only accessible water sources between the start and Snow lake were two small snowmelt trickles, one bear Margaret and one near Teragram. Not sure how long those will be around.
I feel like Whittier Ridge can be judged as an unmaintained trail or a scramble route. As a trail it is quite difficult and exposed. As a scramble route it’s pretty easy and straightforward. There is a path of sorts the whole way, but it is easy to lose the path and find yourself on tougher terrain pretty quickly. I wouldn’t say it is scary, but given the remoteness, it’s definitely a route to respect.
The descent to Snow lake was quick, nice little spot. Past snow lake was a bit more rough. The trail is narrow, rough, intermittently brushy, and very hot and exposed. However the views are nice. After this endless descent one enters a jungle of alder. It was so humid in here, felt like a true rainforest even though the trees were small. I would no want to be ascending to Snow lake on a hot sunny day.
The remaining miles along Coldwater lake were mostly flat, and intermittently quite brushy. Seems like a nice spot to go through earlier in the season.
All in all this is such a unique area, with a huge variety of scenery. Also feels very quiet and remote. Make sure you’ve got your water supply and sources down for this.
Trip Report
South Coldwater Trail, Whittier Ridge-Lakes Loop & Lakes Trail — Thursday, Aug. 1, 2024





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