Started around 6am on Thursday, about a dozen cars in the lot but most of them belonging to folks in the campground. It's an easy, pleasant drive from Seattle until you hit the dirt road portion of 167. I made it without problems in a sedan, but there's some washboard and potholes in places. If you're coming in early, pull over at one of the first lookouts and snap a photo of Tahoma when the morning sun is just hitting it.
The trail has a very moderate incline for the first 2 miles or so. Make sure you stop at the eagle's roost lookout for some beautiful views of the mountains. The short turn off to Spray Falls is worth it, too - stop to take in the view and catch a breath before you start the climb to the park. You'll ascend a series of 8 or so switchbacks that I'd consider annoying, but moderate. At the top, go through the woods for another few minutes, cross the bridge over Spray Creek, and it'll open up into a beautiful, flower-filled meadow. I spotted avalanche lilies, indian paintbrush, mountain lupine, alpine aster, and a few others. The bugs are pretty annoying in the meadow, but bug spray managed to keep most of them from biting me (ended up with two mosquito bites).
If you're not doing the loop, you can turn back at any point, but I chose to continue up to Seattle Park. The views just keep getting better as you go, and the elevation gain is minimal. There was a black bear in one of the boulder fields closer to the mountain - I got its attention, but it quickly went back to its business and we had no trouble, just make sure to keep your distance. During this section, it's fully exposed, so make sure you have sunscreen/a hat/sunglasses.
Though it's tempting, stay on the main trail - some plants on alpine tundra can be up to hundreds of years old and can easily be damaged or killed by being stepped on.
I turned back before the ascent to the Wonderland trail junction, and got to the trailhead around 4 hours after I started. This was a perfect time to have my lunch by Lake Mowich and hop in for a quick swim. While Tolmie Peak is a gorgeous hike in its own right, Spray Park right around the corner is also a fantastic choice, and much quieter - on a weekday morning, I encountered one person going up, and about a dozen groups heading back down.
enjoy!
if you've read this far: i lost a pair of round green sunglasses with tortoiseshell frames somewhere in spray park - they're prescription and I'd love to have them back, so if you found them please shoot me an email alexfbletz@gmail.com. thanks!
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