We didn’t plan to make it to Blue Glacier, but we hiked to Olympic Guard Station and wanted to include that in this report for Five Mile Island. So glad the road to the Hoh is repaired!
This was a bucket list trip for our friend—and his first backpacking experience—and the Hoh River Trail was a fantastic choice. We reserved backpacking permits for Lewis Meadow and Five Mile Island through recreation.gov, and I emailed the WIC to ask about destination flexibility. A ranger confirmed that along non-quota zones (like the Hoh), we could adjust our itinerary as needed. With our printed permits and bear canisters, we didn’t need to stop on the way in. The entrance had a short wait to check parks pass, and there's signed parking for backpackers near the visitors center.
The trail is mostly flat, with lush mossy trees and ferns throughout—stunning scenery. However, it’s also extremely wet and muddy. Expect lots of puddles and deep mud. Waterproof boots were barely enough, and trekking poles were crucial to avoid slipping. Some parts of the trail are nearly impassable due to water, with side trails forming up on the banks.
There are signed campsites at 1.5 and 3.9 miles. The spur to Tom’s Creek (3.9 mi) was flooded and inaccessible, so I wouldn’t recommend planning to camp there until conditions dry out. We had lunch at a beautiful bridge with a small waterfall to the left. The trail occasionally touches the river, but the river is often out of sight or inaccessible.
We spent two nights at Five Mile Island, which has a flat meadow, pit toilet, and river access. No bear wire, but our canisters worked fine. We camped in the trees near a fire ring.
The next day, we took a day hike to Olympic Guard Station (10 miles RT). We saw deer and elk along the way. About ¼ - ½ mile before the station, there’s a wide stream crossing marked by orange tape. We crossed upstream at a large tree with branches for support, then continued through the forest and crossed again at a log jam to rejoin the trail. Follow the orange tape.
Olympic Guard Station has a big meadow, group site, bear wire, and a shelter—great base for further exploration.
Rain was constant for two days, really testing our gear. I recommend bringing an extra rain tarp for cooking and staying dry. Even our MSR tent had water inside after night two. Thankfully, the first afternoon was dry and we managed to build a small fire with dry driftwood and fire starters.
We’ll definitely be back. Happy trails!
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