Today was really hot on Tahoma. The forecast strong winds failed to materialize, and the sun was strong. Positives - the views were stunning, and visibility was unlimited until early afternoon. Negatives - the snow turned to slush by 10am, nobody sun-screened their arms and legs but most people took jackets and long pants off soon after leaving Paradise, and everyone needed more water than they had. Nisqually Glacier was an awakening giant. I have never heard it so loud. It growled loudly as meltwater shifted the rocks, and the rockslides became more frequent as the day went on.
I left Paradise at 6am. The snow had a nice crust and I decided to test out some crampons I had just bought. The fit was great, and they were lovely for that steep bit up to Panorama but they were useless after the slush appeared. I don't think any traction devices were necessary for the way up to Camp Muir, with the exception of skins on skis. It was a pretty good day for that although skiing over suncups doesn't seem like much fun. I took 2 liters of water, which wasn't enough for the conditions. However, putting snow in water bottles kind of worked because it melted quickly.
The gradient is fierce, like Aasgard pass but much longer. Anvil Rock is your landmark, and it seems to take forever for it to pass to your right and then beneath you. Just put your legs into granny gear and maintain whatever upward pace you can. If you are summiting, be aware that an enormous number of other people have the same idea. Population density is high at Camp Muir on Friday and Saturday night, especially at this time of year. Maybe it's a good idea to try to organize your trip for two weeknights.
A few recommendations if you're going up to Camp Muir this weekend:
- Take more water than you think you will need.
- Use plenty of sunscreen or cover up with sun-protective clothes.
- If you're skinning up to altitude, maybe give that tempting drop into the Nisqually basin a miss. There's a lot of heavy stuff dropping into there.
- Be prepared to tire more quickly than usual.
- Be really careful if you're crossing glaciers or attempting to summit. The melt changes the terrain rapidly. Maybe time your summit climb to finish before sunrise.

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