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Trip Report

Three Fingers — Sunday, Jun. 15, 2025

North Cascades > Mountain Loop Highway
Steep traverse

We started at 5:00 AM to do a one day push to the lookout. The FS41 washout can be driven over by a Subaru, however, the road is officially closed at this point and your vehicle could get stuck and you may be ticketed if you decide to drive to the bridge. This spot is obvious by the boulders you would snake through. Parking at the washout requires an additional 3.5 miles to the bridge.

We took Meadow Mt trail. Some of the big, slippery logs have been cut by the Mountaineers but there are still many climb-overs to get to Saddle lake. The first snowfields were before the top of Meadow Mt. We didn't hit snow again until 0.5 miles after Saddle Lk.

Goat Flat is snow covered with two sites melted out and the third is currently a huge puddle. From here the trail is snow covered with a couple melted out spots in the trees. The traverse to Tin Can Gap is snow covered and requires snow travel skills. At TCG, the cornice is still there. Just beyond, we set up snow anchors and belayed with a rope over the moat. This section is very steep and very high exposure. Beyond this we were challenged by rock under thin snow. The gully is completely filled and is a high angle descent to a section of melted out trail. After a few more snow crossings (crampons on/off ad nauseam), we ran into some ice around the horn. At the last switchback before heading to the glacier, snow was solid all the way up to the lookout. Sites below the glacier have not melted out yet.

The ladders below the lookout were encased in snow and ice. A fall here would be fatal. We set up anchors and ascended with ropes.

Car to lookout was 17 hours. Snow conditions and weather could change while you are at the lookout, stranding you there. Many search and rescue missions are caused at and beyond TCG every year by unprepared or inexperienced visitors. Know your party's limits and when to call it and turnaround. Early to mid summer require mountaineering skills. Always bring a bivy or tent in case the lookout is unreachable or full. Please pack out all your gear and trash.

More information can be found at The Mountaineer's Three Fingers info page.

Gully ascent
Ladders before lookout
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