Faraway Rock, Lakes Loop — Thursday, Sep. 22, 2016

Asking a Rainieraholic which trail is her favorite is like asking a mom which kid she likes best. If I had to choose, however, this would be it. A perennial favorite, the Mazama Ridge Loop has it all: stunning mountain vistas, Renoir-petaled wildflower meadows, rushing waterfalls, and crystal-clear alpine tarns. Chortling song birds. To-die-for views of the saw-toothed Tatoosh Range to the south as well as Stevens Ridge and Louise and Reflection Lakes. And oh yeah, on a clear day, Mazama Ridge offers some of the most splendid views of Mount Rainier this side of forever. The Mazama Ridge Trail is a loop trail of about 5-1/2 miles RT. You can start at either Paradise or Reflection Lakes, off Stevens Canyon Road. Choose either clockwise or counter-clockwise from either starting point. We’ve done both several times, from both starting points. Our personal favorite is starting from Reflection Lakes and hiking counter clockwise. Taking this route, you start at the east end of the smaller Reflection Lake. You climb pretty hard, pretty quick. Cross a dry, rocky creek bed. Keep stair-stepping up to Faraway Rock. Offering a jaw-dropping panorama of Stevens Canyon, the Tatoosh Wilderness and beyond, this is a perfect lunch or photo spot. Or both. On a sunny day, Louise Lake and Reflection Lakes glitter far below. The magnificent Tatoosh Mountain Range tower to the south, epic in its own right. The ground is rocky and there are no railings at Faraway Rock. So watch your step and don’t do anything stupid. After sucking in some conifer-crisped air and stuffing your lungs back in to your chest at Faraway Rock, continue upwards past a lovely little tarn on your right. You’ll hit the spine of the ridge before too long and stair-step up to relatively level ground. The Mountain bursts into view directly ahead like a snowy sovereign. The ridge crest is at about 5,700 feet. Keep hiking along the ridge into Paradise. The trail intersects with the Skyline Trail and snakes down into Paradise Valley through a series of switchbacks. Heading into Paradise, it climbs again – oh, joy - as you cross Edith Creek and Myrtle Falls. Once you hit Paradise, you can pop in to the Jackson Visitor Center (JVC) and watch the new/old video in the theater. Or refill your water bottles inside near the picnic tables on your immediate left through the main entrance. JVC has windows like Emmons Glacier has snow, so it’s a perfect place to rest your hoofers, watch climbers ascend, or breathe in more of that fabulous wildflower-perfumed Paradise air. You’re at about 5,400 feet, so enjoy what thin air you can. Head back to Reflection Lakes through stands of wild berries and a sometimes rocky, trough-like trail that can get muddy. You’ll climb again after crossing Stevens Canyon Road to regain the trail on the other side, just past a gurgling waterfall. This climb is a challenge if your feet are tired and your chest is heaving. But it’s relatively short. So buck up. We met only four other hikers on the trail until we descended into Paradise. It got more crowded at that point, but that's not unusual. Also, we’ve seen more bears on Mazama Ridge than on any other single trail in the park. So Be Bear Aware. This trail typically melts out in July. Our favorite season to hike it is in early fall – after summer crowds have dispersed and before the snow flies. Sometimes the wildflower meadows are still decked out in their fully glory into mid or even late September. Last time we were here, purple clusters of lupine and aster elbowed scarlet and orange paintbrush and yellow cinquefoil for premium space. Spectacular! The Mazama Ridge Trail avoids most of the hordes and masses that pepper Paradise trails during peak season (July through Labor Day). But it’s still a popular trail and sees heavy use. Once you’re on the ridge, the trail is exposed to direct sun. Use sunscreen and wear a hat. Bring plenty of water. You’ll need it. Memo to Old Iron Knees: If I kick off first, kindly scatter my ashes where heaven kisses the earth: at the crest of Mazama Ridge. Getting there: From Tacoma drive east on State Route 7, turning left onto SR 706 at Elbe. Continue east through Ashford and the Nisqually Entrance of Mount Rainier National Park. Pass Longmire. Take the cut-off to Steven’s Canyon Road to begin this hike at Reflection Lakes. If you want to start at Paradise, keep going up the Longmire to Paradise Road. Park in the lot at Paradise. The trail sign is on the right, overlooking the Nisqually Valley. If you want specifics, pop in to the Jackson Visitor Center and ask a ranger. A topographical model is also on display inside the center.