This hike has been on our list for a while, and we finally got out to do it! It's a long trip from Seattle, but we stayed in Poulsbo with a friend and were able to be at the Port Angeles Wilderness Center at 8:15 Sunday morning (we were not alone!) with the hopes of spending 2 nights out (Sunday - Tuesday). The 7 Lakes Basin campsites were all full by the time we got there, but the ranger said we could camp at Deer Lake one night and Sol Duc Park the next. Perfect! This area has been discovered, and you won't find solitude... but so worth it! Regarding bear canisters: we called ahead and were told that the office always runs out, so we bought one. The morning we arrived, it looked like they had PLENTY to go around, so not sure you need to bring your own. The ranger said we MUST use one-- do not hang your food.
The hike starts with many tourists on the lovely Sol Duc Falls trail. We turned right and started the quiet, forested climb to Deer Lake. There are plenty of ripe berries for snacking along the way. 4 miles in, we found the low altitude lake and sought a campsite in the meadow. There are tons of campsites, but not many waterfront choices. Also a privy and creek for all your bathroom and watering needs. There was a bit of traffic heading through that afternoon, but by evening, it quieted down. A ranger was checking permits and told us that a bear had been hanging around the lake lately. We saw no sign of it, just a curious deer that evening. Bugs were active, so we set up our mosquito tent for a 'safe' zone.
The next morning we set out for the High Divide. The trail climbs through lush forest and eventually rises to alpine meadow. We passed Potholes camp (looks great for campsites and swimming!), traversed through forest and across the cut on the slope where the first open views start. Views were obscured throughout the hike due to BC wildfires, but the macro becomes more interesting. TONS of wildflowers throughout. We marveled at the diversity of trail types... forest, rocks, ridgewalk, snow patches, talus, lakeside, meadow... you will not get bored!
We passed the cutoff to 7 Lakes Basin and headed up, up, up to the High Divide. The smoke persisted the whole hike, but the flowers were at their peak. You can see down into the 7 Lakes Basin as you traverse the ridge. You could barely make out the Hoh River and the next ridge through the smokey haze. It's quite exposed, and with no breeze, we were having a sweat fest. No water along the ridge until you reach Heart Lake (great swimming spot). From there, the trail goes down, down, down into Sol Duc Park (about a mile beyond Heart Lake). There are nice camping spots at Sol Duc Park, but not a ton of privacy (you can see the other campers around the creek). There is a lovely little watering hole and waterfall there. Privy available through the flowered meadow. Another curious deer traveling through at dusk. Mosquitos active.
The 3rd morning, we packed up and headed out. The trail is mostly down and flat for the last portion. Beautiful forest and river for the last 4 miles.
Bears: 0; Goats: 0; Deer: 3; Marmots: 3; Bugs: MANY ... other campers reported bear and goat sightings, but we didn't see any! This hike has probably has some of the best sweeping views around, but we'll have to go back when there's less smoke. We still loved every bit of it. All trails and campsites are well-marked and easy to navigate with a map.
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