Okay, first of all, I'll talk about the road. Yes, it's horrible. Yes, I questioned the sanity of attempting it in a Honda Fit. Yes, I'd absolutely recommend a high clearance vehicle if you have access to one. But, if you don't (like us), it's possible to get to the trailhead if you go slow and know how to drive on rough terrain. There were a few sedans and subcompacts up there besides us, so I guess we weren't the only crazy ones.
NOTE: In contradiction to WTA's info, you don't seem to need a NW Forest Pass to park at the trailhead. The sign at the trailhead said "no recreation pass required" and the USFS also doesn't mention needing a pass on the trailhead's web page.
We arrived at the trailhead around 9AM Friday. There were already 15 or so cars parked there. Even with the terrible road, this is a popular hike, and--as we soon discovered--deservedly so.
The trail itself is in good condition. Blowdowns are cleared up (thanks USFS!). It's a gentle uphill grade (Gaia track said 1623' ascent) through the pine forest, with peek-a-boo views of snow-capped mountains every so often to remind you what's in store when you arrive at the meadow. Some snow patches on the trail starting around 4 miles in, but nothing bad.
There were a good dozen or so creek crossings, mostly unremarkable, but four or so that required extra care. Leroy Creek was probably the hairiest. Trekking poles helped a lot. Use the logs; there are plenty of them, and they can be moved to make bridges.
We got to Spider Meadow around noon and wow. What a view. I felt like I should start belting out "The Sound of Music" or something. We nabbed a campsite, set up our tents, and spent the rest of the day exploring the meadow before the rain rolled in. Marmots whistled back and forth; deer wandered through our campsite; wildflowers were beginning to bloom; clouds played along the jagged mountain peaks. Pure paradise.
By Saturday morning the rain had cleared up and we went to explore Phelps Basin. This required two more creek crossings; the latter of which, Phelps Creek, finally proved too much for my boots and I gave up and waded in barefoot. Talk about an invigorating foot bath...that water is cold! There was a lot more snow past the creek crossing, and snow bridges are starting to melt out, so be careful.
Phelps Basin was gorgeous. There was no one else there and we crossed Phelps Creek yet again by building a little log bridge, then had lunch on top of a huge boulder. There are more campsites up here, at least two that we saw, possibly more still under snow.
Didn't go up to Spider Gap but heard from other hikers that there is still a lot of snow, and microspikes are probably necessary.
Headed out Sunday AM and braved Phelps Creek / Chiwawa River Road once more. Survived, with our car intact! Got burgers at Zeke's on the way out before settling in for the Hwy 2 traffic slog back to Seattle.
All in all, we had a lovely long weekend, and it was a great introduction to backpacking for one of our friends whom we dragged along. Beautiful, beautiful trail--if you can brave that darn road!

Comments
petomas02 on Spider Meadow and Phelps Basin
Thanks for taking your time to make this report. We're you there over the weekend? With so many cars I'd hope so. I'm doing the gap on Wednesday morning. Think it a day hike?
Posted by:
petomas02 on Jul 08, 2018 11:41 PM
petomas02 on Spider Meadow and Phelps Basin
Were
Posted by:
petomas02 on Jul 08, 2018 11:41 PM
trisaratop on Spider Meadow and Phelps Basin
We arrived on a Friday and left Sunday. There were probably as many cars when we left, but most of the original cars had gone. I think people had to park down the road a bit if they arrived Saturday.
I assume you'd have no trouble doing the gap as a day hike if the weather was good and you had the gear/fitness. But we didn't go up there, so I'm just going off reports of other hikers.
Posted by:
trisaratop on Jul 09, 2018 07:15 AM
cgallup295 on Spider Meadow and Phelps Basin
Thank you for the great trip report. My friend and I are going early Saturday and I was wondering if there were any camp sites available when you were there. I know you went in on Friday but I was wondering if you thought there were any sites left on Saturday. Thank you for your input.
Posted by:
cgallup295 on Jul 11, 2018 06:50 PM
trisaratop on Spider Meadow and Phelps Basin
We noticed most people got to the meadow on Saturday after 2pm or so. But most of the established sites were taken by Friday night. There are some decent places to camp that aren't actual sites but still follow LNT principles (mostly on the west side of the meadow, on the other side of Phelps Creek). However, when we hiked up to Phelps Basin at noon it was empty except for us. You might have a good shot at something up there.
Another idea is you could drive in Friday night and car camp along Chiwawa River Rd; there are a ton of small USFS campgrounds ($14/night). Then you can get a really early start Saturday morning and hopefully beat everyone else. That's actually what we did, except a night earlier.
Posted by:
trisaratop on Jul 11, 2018 07:23 PM
cgallup295 on Spider Meadow and Phelps Basin
Thank you for the great trip report. My friend and I are going early Saturday and I was wondering if there were any camp sites available when you were there. I know you went in on Friday but I was wondering if you thought there were any sites left on Saturday. Thank you for your input.
Posted by:
cgallup295 on Jul 11, 2018 06:50 PM
Buffalohiker on Spider Meadow and Phelps Basin
I thought campfires were not permitted at Spider Meadows, your above 5000 feet which is usually the cut off for backcountry fires.
Posted by:
Buffalohiker on Jul 17, 2018 08:25 AM
trisaratop on Spider Meadow and Phelps Basin
Barring seasonal fire danger restrictions, campfires are permitted in most of Glacier Peaks Wilderness. There are a few exceptions listed here: https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/okawen/recarea/?recid=79427
Perhaps you're thinking of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness, where I believe there is a blanket "no fires over 5000 elevation" rule.
Posted by:
trisaratop on Jul 17, 2018 08:46 AM