Our original plan was a late start, camp at the trailhead or Hannegan Camp, then do a series of 7-8 mile hikes from campsite to campsite clockwise until we were out. When we arrived at at the visitor center, however, the weather forecast was for thunderstorms on the ridge, and anyway none of the permits for our original itinerary were available, so we decided/were forced to try the counterclockwise route.
Day 1: We hiked out of the trailhead around 5 PM, arrived at Hannegan Camp at sunset, and decided to night hike (with headlamps) to get to Boundary Camp so that the next day's hike wouldn't be so long. We got there around 9, I think. It started to rain heavily just after we pitched our tent. From the trailhead to Hannegan Pass is probably the best valley on the trip, in terms of epic cliffs, fall colors, and waterfalls.
Day 2: Boundary Camp to Indian Creek Camp. The promised thunderstorm never appeared, and this was a nice 10+ mile mostly gentle downhill, with sun and the occasional early fall light rain. We took the cable car around 1 and arrived at Indian Creek Camp at 5 or 6. Passed a trail maintenance crew in the afternoon, which explained all the freshly maintained trails we had been seeing.
Day 3: Indian Creek Camp to Copper Lake. This was the day that we were dreading since includes an approximately 3500 foot climb (referred to by the ranger who issued our permit as "the big hill" and other hikers as "quite a hump") and neither of us were particularly hiker-fit. It was challenging, but probably doable for anyone who is able to make it as far as Indian Creek. It rained most of the way, but there were blueberries and magnificent views waiting on the top. (It was approximately 50/50 magnificent views/no views because you are in a cloud the whole time we were on the ridge) We saw our first bear about a mile east of camp. The toilet at Copper Lake lived up to its reputation. We set up our tents in the rainy and chilly dusk.
Day 4: Copper Lake to the trailhead. Started our day by hiking the remaining distance up to the lookout, where it snowing a tiny bit. A lot of up and down, fresh blueberries, amazing views, moody clouds, some bears in the distance, and a bit of rain. Saw some marmots preparing for winter on the hike up to the pass (and seemingly not caring that we were 10 feet away). We were at Hannegan Pass by about 3:30, and then the long slog down the valley (which was still totally epic) to the trailhead.
I liked the reverse loop. Either way you go, you have the same amount of climbing, and while it's more spread out the other way, doing the hike counterclockwise is probably easier on the knees, and it saves the ridge until the end. In my opinion, the ridge is the main event; it's good for morale to have it to look forward to, and it's nice to have the hard stuff already done once you get up there.
If you hike this in the fall, be prepared for rain and cold weather.

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