On 8/15/22, started at Shannon Ridge trailhead and climbed up to camp close to base of Sulphide glacier. On 8/16/22, traversed Sulphide Glacier from base camp, rock scramble up Class 3-4 gully, summited Shuksan, back out to trailhead.
Should go without saying, but this is a legit mountaineering effort that requires ice ax, crampons, safe glacier travel techniques, and being comfortable with Class 3-4 exposed rock scrambling.
Road up to Shannon Ridge trailhead is ok with couple of potholes and no major obstacles. Could be done with a low clearance vehicle.
Nothing major in terms of the trail up the old logging road and switchbacks through forest. After crossing the flat ridge (which exposes great views of Baker and Baker Lake) and ascending one final dusty set of switchbacks to a notch, will see the trail continue on a slope across rocks. There are a couple of cairns leading the way, but there still is a good stretch of snow obscuring an obvious route had to put on boots for to ascend to the first camp. GPS was helpful here to make sure on track.
There are a couple of obvious campsites around the composting toilet (exposed, but what a view of Baker). There are a lot of flies coming out of the toilet in mid day, but better in the morning when colder, so if you’re uncomfortable with that, pack blue bags. Chose a campsite that was closest to a water source that was trickling from the melting snow at the bottom of the camp area. It’s a trickle in early day, but grows stronger as the day gets warmer. Bugs are present and not too bad, but did get a couple of bites without using any deet.
Temperature was very warm during the day, where was comfortable in running shorts and a thin layered sun hoodie, so it looks like the beginnings of a heat wave in Seattle wasn’t escapable in higher mountains. Slept in a tent at night comfortable in a 40 F degree sleeping bag.
Alpine start the day of summit had some gorgeous sunrise colors in the distance while traversing the Sulphide. A boot path across the glacier was pretty evident and didn’t notice any major crevasses directly along the route. Took crampons off at base of the summit pyramid and scrambled up gully, trying to follow the areas where saw pre-set rappelling ropes/anchors set. Some guides call this scramble a solid Class 3. I’m not much of a rock climber to begin with, but it seemed like a Class 4 to me solely based on how nervous I was. I think we may have gotten off track going up which made it more difficult as well. There are a large number of rocks that looked like they should be stable for a handhold only to find out it would move with some weight applied. Getting solid footholds while wearing mountaineering boots was difficult for me. Snow was present in the gully and did have to traverse for very short stretches. Did not experience any rock fall.
Summit was beautiful with clear skies and views in all directions with major peaks visible. Rainier, Baker, Glacier Peak, Adams, etc. Apparently can see into Canada.
Was able to rappel down some stretches making use of the pre-set rope/anchor points which made going down the gully much easier, but down climbing all the way is doable given sufficient energy and attention to parties coming up below. Going back across Sulphide to camp was very warm to where had just stripped down to base layers only. Packed up at camp and headed all the way back out to Shannon Ridge trailhead.
Leave base camp: 505 AM
Shuksan summit: 900 AM
Shannon Ridge TH: 415 PM
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