It is an absolute must to make the extra effort up to Royal Basin if you're camping at Royal Lake. The lake is nice, but smaller than you might think, and really there are many such spots in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. But just beyond the lake as you start the ascent up to the basin, you'll enter a sweet little meadow near the impressive Shelter Rock and then cross a pretty creek near the privy sign (why they put the privy a good 15-minute roundtrip walk from the lake campsites seems to be a mistake, as most people may opt for a cathole if it's cold, dark, or too early in the morning). After the creek crossing you'll start the steep trail climb (totally doable, and especially without your backpack it will be a lot easier than your hike to the lake). After a few minutes you'll go downhill slightly into a wondrous valley meadow bisected by a swift gurgling creek, surrounded by jagged peaks, and populated by happy deer and big furry Olympic marmots. To the left there is a high cliff waterfall still streaming at this late date, and then another creek crossing, and a final 5-10 minute ascent to the basin floor (one sketchy part of the trail here: a thin line up a sandy ridge; be careful descending this portion; if you slip you may slide twenty feet or so down to the talus-bordered creek, but just watch your step and it will be fine).
Once at the basin, oh man! Deep blue-green tarns, the tops of some of the Olympics highest peak surrounding you, rocky moonscape terrain, a definite feeling of experiencing one of the most remote and awe-inspiring parts of the park, without having to slog fifteen miles or more to get there. The weather was a thin overcast, with a few blue patches and teasing sunbreaks, and yes, it would have looked stunning in bright, cloud-free sunshine, but on a cloudy day you're not missing any of the spectacular scenery since you are in a basin looking up at the mountains rather than across a sweeping vista of distant peaks. Take a moment to dip your bare feet into the largest tarn and feel the luxurious glacial mud caress your toes.
We stayed the first night at Royal Creek, a good option if you're making the drive from Seattle and don't want to hike the full 7.2 miles to the lake in the afternoon. Two good sites by the creek (a little dark on a cloudy day; and who dumped the remains of their ramen noodles in the creek?). The next day we hiked the 3.7 miles to the lake in about 2.5 hours, stopping in the lovely meadow below the lake for fresh water. The final climb from the meadow to the lake takes 20-30 minutes. We found a small but pretty tent site on the knoll at the far end of the lake for our second night. Hiked to the basin in the afternoon and made the descent back to the car the next morning.
One note about the driving directions. The WTA directions say "Follow Palo Alto for 5.8 miles and turn right onto Forest Road 2880. This gravel road winds steeply down for 0.9 miles until you cross the bridge over the Dungeness River and drive past the Dungeness Forks Campground." BUT, the Forest Road 2880 sign is so small it is very easy to miss and the surrounding forest is posted with several Private Property signs. We drove by it twice and almost a third time. But squint and you'll see the sign and turn right there, descending down past the campground. The rest of the directions are accurate.
NOT A SINGLE MOSQUITO!!!
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