The Trial up to the saddle is a disaster! Many blowdowns, debris all over the trail, I could go on.... but, it is not impassable, just adds a bit more to the hike in and a lot to my sore legs hiking out. To fix the trail they will probably need to reroute some sections because of the massive erosion in some areas. Once you get to the park boundary, the trial is just fine (same as always).
The snow is intermittent past the saddle to where it rounds the knoll and heads up to the lower camp/toilet. At that point, it is all snow.
The snow was soft enough that we didn't use crampons for the trip.
We camped at high camp some of us on snow and others on dry ground. There is a great water source at high camp.
After high camp, the water is limited to wet rocks other than the outcroppings just above high camp (streams there).
The summit block is pretty much free of snow except for the first section. That snow sheat was sending most people off route. The main gully is the one with all the rap anchors on both sides of the gully. If you don't see rap anchors on both sides you are in the wrong gully. Climb the snow sheat right to left (not straight up) and then into the gully with all the rap anchors (there are about nine of them).
Get up early, a mass of people were on the glacier and coming up as we were rappelling. I mean a bunch of people. I was glad we had summited and were heading back.
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