Watch the trip-report vlog video for the full story - see link below.
Our objective was to summit Mount Baker via the Easton Glacier route. From the very beginning, we face unexpected challenges. As we ascend, we anticipate the conditions of a late-season climb, including melted snow bridges and an icy glacier. With the freezing level at 12,000 feet, the glacier is likely slippery as heck. Add to that, we hear about a guided service turning back at the formidable Roman Wall due to a dangerous combo of icy slopes and scree. Despite these daunting circumstances, we press on, spending the afternoon at camp honing our crevasse rescue skills. However, my personal gear mishap with ill-fitting crampons casts a shadow of doubt over our summit attempt. Would we make it to the top?
The second day unfolds in the dark, with our bleary-eyed team starting our ascent at 1:30am. Roping up and donning crampons, we soon realize that we've roped up and cramponed in too early, and there's a severe lack of snow on the route. My unstable crampons further complicate matters. The situation comes to a head when we realize we've veered off course, losing valuable time. And it becomes evident that we're not going to reach the glacier as planned. Safety is our top priority, so we make the difficult decision to turn back, arriving at camp by 4 a.m. After a brief rest, we hike out, reflecting on the challenges we faced and the lessons we learned. While we didn't reach the summit, we hold our heads high, for every day spent on the mountain is a good day. We've learned valuable lessons about gear preparation, seasonal climbing timing, and the need for more mountaineering skills.
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