Mount Shuksan — Friday, Jun. 11, 1999

North Cascades > Mount Baker Area

Five of us hiked in with skis and climbing gear to climb Mt Shuksan by the Sulphide Glacier route. The road was snow covered and impassable even in my Jeep in places about a mile from the trailhead. The trail was melted out for about another mile, and became snow covered near the old forest service road. We hiked rather than skied, (too lazy to change gear!) and didn't sink too badly in the softening snow. From base camp at 5,400 feet, we skied up the snow slopes. Very early morning start is advised, to be off the slopes by afternoon due to the soft slab avalanches. We also observed a cornice breaking off in late afternoon on Saturday. The summit block was snow covered - main gully 50 to 55 degree snow, soft snow, and rotten ice. Good pro in the rock beside the gully. Boots, crampons, and ice axe recommended. The summit was snow covered. Ski out was soft but do-able. No open crevasses except for east side of snowfield near the Sulphide. A ski approach/descent to/from the summit block is recommended for moving quickly over several avalance slopes near 6,000 feet. However, one member of our climbing party did not ski, and hiked the whole way, had a lighter pack (didn't have to haul skis), and made the summit ok. He remarked that the snow was soft in places and made walking somewhat difficult. Excellent alpine climb, glamorous summit. Full conditions! Life is good...:) The Mountain Woman