Overcoat Peak — Friday, May. 31, 2002

This is the first time I have written a report for a peak which I didn't actual summit. I did get to within 30 vertical feet of the top and as there is not another trip report for this peak in the data repository I thought some of the information contained might be helpful. The horrible road for the Middle Fork of the Snoqualmie is the start of this outing. The road at present cannot be taken to the trailhead for the Dutch Miller Trail as there are huge trees blocking the road 1 mile from the end. So hike the Dutch Miller Trail about 3 1/2 miles up from its official start to where along the river is a lovely Alaska Cedar which has fallen to serve as a bridge to the other side. One has to then hike about 1/2 mile upstream to connect with the outflow for snowmelt from Overcoat Glacier. Hike the glacier in a SW direction until reaching the eastern edge at 6,600'. From here one can see a 400 foot 45 degree angle snow finger which will take you to within 100 feet of the Overcoat summit which lies to the east. Crampons are necessary for travel on the snow finger and absolutely essential to try and gain the summit from the top of the finger. There is thick ice covering much of the rock on this northern section of the mountain which does not get the direct sunlight. The rocks offer poor handhold opportunities. A red flag for me were the slings which others had placed for protection. I searched for a possible route but was unsuccessful. Beckey describes steep rock and ledges on the west side. Forget about that approach unless you have a rack and rope. My turn around time was reached before being able to go to the other side of the mountain (facing Chimney Rock) where a Class 3 route is described by Beckey. Even without summiting this area is incredibly beautiful. Summit Chief is immense. The dark rock of Chimney Rock scrapes the sky. Broadshouldered Hinman speaks from across the valley. I will probably return to this area this summer to hopefully reach the top of this peak via the area between Chimney Rock and Overcoat. The trip took 12 hours from car to car. Closest point to the summit reached in 6 hrs.