I decided to try a long day-hike up the Putvin trail to Lake of the Angels, through St. Peter’s Gate to the Scout Lake Trail, and returning to my car via the Lena Lake Trail. I knew this 21-mile loop was a challenge for my old bones, so I started walking up the road to the Putvin Trail at 5:00 AM. The ascent to Lake of the Angels was steep, but without problems except for momentarily loosing the trail at the last basin before the lake. The Lake of the Angels is set in a beautiful basin with many opportunities for exploration. There are three designated camp sites near the lake shore, with more in the basin above the lake. The lake was completely melted out and there was about 50% snow cover on the slopes above.
I snapped a few photos, and then headed up to St. Peter’s Gate, which is the prominent pass on the SE shoulder of Mount Stone. I located a climber’s path just NE of the most easterly designated camp site. The trail works up a ledge to the basin below the pass, avoiding steep meadow and bolder fields. From this point I ascended snow (ice axe required) and scree past the black cliffs of Mt. Stone to St. Peter’s Gate. Here one can see Ullin’s Bathtubs and Scout Lake to the north, and the pass between the two lakes where the Scout Lake trail will be intersected.
A quick descent was made over moderate snow slopes to upper Ullin’s Bathtub, where I paused for lunch. The upper lake is in an open, subalpine basin while the lower lake is in a forested basin. The bugs were plentiful, but not too annoying if you kept moving.
After lunch I climbed the easy slopes north of the lake to the pass overlooking Scout Lake. Here the impressive spire of The Bandersnatch demanded a pause for more photos. I scanned the basin to the north of the pass looking for the Scout Lake Trail. I headed for a very faint path on the edge of a meadow that trended north-south. As I followed the path north it began to descend towards Scout Lake, and I realized that I was on the wrong switchback. I left the trail and headed east a few hundred yards and picked up the correct path trail heading NE.
I had to frequently refer to the map as the trail is easy to loose and there are many side paths. The way is very pleasant, with numerous tarns, wildflower displays, and expansive views. The trail becomes much more distinct after the junction with the direct route to Scout Lake is passed. There were few problems except for broken mountain hemlock thickets obstructing the trail near Lena Lake.
Lena Lake was nearly deserted, as it was getting late Sunday afternoon. This was my first time on the Lena Lake Trail and I was amazed at how steep and rough this trail is. I thought I would really make tracks on this section, but the going was slow negotiating huge steps, slippery sections without switchbacks, and root ladders. I finally reached lower Lena Lake and was “rewarded” by three miles of endless, gentle switchbacks. What a contrast to the upper lake trail!
This taxing route took 13-1/2 hours to do, but is incredibly scenic. I intend to return to Lake of the Angels with more time for exploration.
Washington Trails
Association
Trails for everyone, forever
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