Hiking in the late spring can be frustrating. We can be stonewalled by snow, by blowdowns, or by swollen creeks. We were stymied about a mile from Chiwaukum Lake at the Glacier Creek crossing.

The creek was a raging inferno and all but one log crossing was under water (photos attached). We could see the proper log crossing and where the trail continued on the other side but there was just no safe way to go across. The one available log over the creek was about 10 feet high and narrow - too narrow to do a comfortable balancing act across. We could have sat and inched our way over but still, to lose your balance at any point would have meant dropping 10 feet into a roiling torrent and to be whisked away in seconds never to be seen again. We weighed the risks with the payoff and agreed that it was just not worth it. We spent an hour scouting up and down the creek in search of other crossings but eventually gave up, which for us is not an easy task.

As for the main Chiwaukum Creek trail, it’s a pleasant trail, steep in spots but with enough flat spots in between to let you catch your breath. There are several very nice stream-side campsites along the way if one didn’t want to make the 8-mile one-way trip all the way to the lake.

The first 4 miles were clear of blowdowns and between that and Glacier Creek there were several across the trail but easily passible. The mosquitoes became more aggressive the further up the trail we went. Even with my favorite bug spray on, I still came away with a dozen welts from bites. Lot of wildflowers (including some sort of lewisia).

Wait a couple weeks for the creek to calm down before attempting the entire trail.

Snow is encountered at the trail junction for the south fork vs. Chiwaukum Lake (six miles intot the hike). The trail is in good shape to that point. I ended the hike two miles further up from the trail junction towards Chiwaukum Lake due to increasing snow.

Sep 29, 2008: Chiwaukum Lake - Larch Lake – Cup Lake

Last year, around the same time of year as now, I had attempted getting to Larch Lake to enjoy some fall colors. Instead of the brightness of fall I had experienced the monochrome palette of winter: constant precipitation, culminating with 2ft of snow in Ewing Basin, had sapped my will and energy. I had vowed to return and this time, my trip ended up exceeding all expectations: groves of aspens, turning larches, beautiful lakes and gorgeous weather…fall in all her glory.

5:00am had me hiking from the Chiwaukum Creek trailhead in the dark. Sounds of Chiwaukum Creek kept me connected to the now, as I otherwise remained ensconced in the puddle of light cast by my headlamp. An easy grade on beautiful tread made for swift progress…almost too swift: last year I had noted a grove of aspens just prior to the first creek crossing; unfortunately, I had failed to take any photos of these beautiful trees. This time round I was determined to do justice to them, however, it was still too dull for photography…oh well, I’d catch them on the way back…

I crossed the North Fork Chiwaukum Creek on a foot log, followed alongside it for 2mi, then crossed Glacier Creek on a foot bridge and a short while later rock-hopped across the North Fork Chiwaukum Creek. Done with creek crossing it was a steep, brushy ascent to Chiwaukum Lake. Chiwaukum Lake was a real surprise! When I last viewed it, it had been a grey body of water under a lowering sky, with the surroundings a white murk; I hadn’t been much impressed. Now, it was a lovely green color; the surface was mirror-smooth in the still conditions and I had huge fun with the reflections.

Next up, just beyond Chiwaukum Lake, was Ewing Basin. I was really looking forward to it, since even the white blanket I had experienced last time had not hidden its beauty. No lack of color this time: just gorgeous fall colors. Ooh and ahhing, I vended my way beside streams and through the beautiful meadows, through a sensory overload of reds, yellows and greens.

A short ascent, and finally I was at Larch Lake. Again, I was struck by its beauty; I know it’s a recurring theme, but this entire hike was full of surprises. Just when I would think that things couldn’t get any better, they would. The larches were still a week or two from prime time, but I was plenty happy! I spent an hour just wandering around the lake, exploring the outlet and its shores.

Last up was Cup Lake, just a short distance away and up a steep little rocky/grassy slope. Wow! Jade green in color, surrounded by rocky slopes, dotted with larches. Spectacular! I had originally planned to make my visit to Cup Lake short, since I was running close to my turn-around time: I ended up spending an hour up there too.

Finally, it was time to head back, but I had my aspens to look forward to…

Additional photos: http://www.flickr.com/[…]/72157607610084387

Stats:
- Distance: 25mi
- Elevation gain: 6,200ft (high point: 6,650ft)
- Hiking time: 14.5hrs
- Total trip time: 19hrs

Trip notes:
- All trails in excellent shape
- Fall colors were gorgeous, though the larches still have 1-2wks for primetime