An easy all-day hike along a roaring wild waterway embraced by coniferous giants, or a very long all-day hike to a pair of subalpine lakes in the shadows of the jagged Sawtooth Range. Neither hike is particularly difficult; they just require endurance and some good aerobic conditioning because of their lengths. No matter your destination, though, you'll have plenty of company. The North Fork Skokomish River valley has been attracting legions of hikers ever since Lieutenant O'Neil and his boys passed this way shortly after Washington became a state.

The North Fork Skokomish Trail will satisfy your hiking desires whether you amble up it for 1 mile or 10. The first 3.5 miles were once a road. Decommissioned in the early 1970s, it now makes for a wide and well-graded path. The trail follows part of the O'Neil Party's 1890 exploratory route. Several months after the famous Press Expedition, which traversed the Olympic interior from north to south, Lieutenant O'Neil led a group of scientists and soldiers across the Olympics from east to west.

Immediately start with a view up the wild valley. At 0.5 mile cross Slate Creek, fed by a little lake high on Mount Lincoln. Cross a luxuriant bottomland of massive cedars and firs-a few big big-leaf maples too! Cross a small creek and large outwash area, and at 1 mile come to the Staircase Rapids Trail. The bridge has been out for years. If it ever gets replaced, this trail makes a nice loop for children and those short on time.

The main trail continues right, coming within earshot and eyesight of the tumbling North Fork. A few nice riverbank flats can be accessed along the way. At 1.25 miles pass the Slide Camp access, leading to good camp and picnic sites on the river. Proceed past remnants of a 1986 slide and emerge at the edge of a 1985 burn. Thanks to a careless camper, 1400 acres of our old-growth heritage went up in flames. Thankfully, nature forgives, and the area has been nicely recovering.

At 2 miles emerge on a small rise in the burnt-over area, which offers good views of the bowing river. Now climbing gradually, move away from the waterway through a forest of new greenery and resilient giants sporting blackened trunks. At 3.4 miles reach the junction to Flapjack Lakes at Spike Camp (elev. 1450 ft).

Big Log Camp: For Big Log Camp, head straight, soon returning to the riverbank and more impressive old growth. At 5.5 miles arrive at a junction. Big Log Camp is to your left, a great place to while away the afternoon by the river.

Flapjack Lakes: For Flapjack Lakes, head right, climbing out of the valley. After a few switchbacks, the trail turns north, skirting a slope and gradually gaining elevation. At 5.5 miles, cross Madeline Creek. Skirt another hillside and then work your way up the Donahue Creek ravine. The way, now considerably steeper, parallels the cascading creek. At 7 miles the climb eases and you reach a junction with the trail that heads to Black and White Lakes and Smith Lake.

Continue right and after 0.5 mile reach the two Flapjack Lakes (elev. 3900 ft). Ringed by subalpine forest and framed by the rugged spires of the Sawtooth Range, the lakes serve up a hearty helping of views. In this popular place, please help mitigate environmental degradation by practicing Leave No Trace principles.