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North Fork Skokomish River and Flapjack Lakes

Last modified Nov 06, 2009 11:12 PM

An easy all-day hike along a roaring wild waterway embraced by coniferous giants, or a very long all-day hike to a pair of subalpine lakes in the shadows of the jagged Sawtooth Range. Neither hike is particularly difficult; they just require endurance and some good aerobic conditioning because of their lengths. No matter your destination, though, you'll have plenty of company. The North Fork Skokomish River valley has been attracting legions of hikers ever since Lieutenant O'Neil and his boys passed this way shortly after Washington became a state.

The North Fork Skokomish Trail will satisfy your hiking desires whether you amble up it for 1 mile or 10. The first 3.5 miles were once a road. Decommissioned in the early 1970s, it now makes for a wide and well-graded path. The trail follows part of the O'Neil Party's 1890 exploratory route. Several months after the famous Press Expedition, which traversed the Olympic interior from north to south, Lieutenant O'Neil led a group of scientists and soldiers across the Olympics from east to west.

Immediately start with a view up the wild valley. At 0.5 mile cross Slate Creek, fed by a little lake high on Mount Lincoln. Cross a luxuriant bottomland of massive cedars and firs-a few big big-leaf maples too! Cross a small creek and large outwash area, and at 1 mile come to the Staircase Rapids Trail. The bridge has been out for years. If it ever gets replaced, this trail makes a nice loop for children and those short on time.

The main trail continues right, coming within earshot and eyesight of the tumbling North Fork. A few nice riverbank flats can be accessed along the way. At 1.25 miles pass the Slide Camp access, leading to good camp and picnic sites on the river. Proceed past remnants of a 1986 slide and emerge at the edge of a 1985 burn. Thanks to a careless camper, 1400 acres of our old-growth heritage went up in flames. Thankfully, nature forgives, and the area has been nicely recovering.

At 2 miles emerge on a small rise in the burnt-over area, which offers good views of the bowing river. Now climbing gradually, move away from the waterway through a forest of new greenery and resilient giants sporting blackened trunks. At 3.4 miles reach the junction to Flapjack Lakes at Spike Camp (elev. 1450 ft).

Big Log Camp: For Big Log Camp, head straight, soon returning to the riverbank and more impressive old growth. At 5.5 miles arrive at a junction. Big Log Camp is to your left, a great place to while away the afternoon by the river.

Flapjack Lakes: For Flapjack Lakes, head right, climbing out of the valley. After a few switchbacks, the trail turns north, skirting a slope and gradually gaining elevation. At 5.5 miles, cross Madeline Creek. Skirt another hillside and then work your way up the Donahue Creek ravine. The way, now considerably steeper, parallels the cascading creek. At 7 miles the climb eases and you reach a junction with the trail that heads to Black and White Lakes and Smith Lake.

Continue right and after 0.5 mile reach the two Flapjack Lakes (elev. 3900 ft). Ringed by subalpine forest and framed by the rugged spires of the Sawtooth Range, the lakes serve up a hearty helping of views. In this popular place, please help mitigate environmental degradation by practicing Leave No Trace principles.

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Recent Trip Reports

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There are 33 trip reports for this hike. See all trip reports for this hike.
Gladys Divide Primitive, Flapjack Lakes, North Fork Skokomish River — Jul 26, 2009 — mossy mom
Day hike
Features: Wildflowers blooming | Ripe berries
Issues: Bridge out
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I took the family camping at Staircase and I went hiking. I did not want to stay at Staircase, but...
I took the family camping at Staircase and I went hiking. I did not want to stay at Staircase, but my kiddo wanted to go camping, so for her sake I suffered with the crowds and noise. God, I hate the front country in the summer. I’m not going back to Staircase until AFTER they lock the gate for the winter. Anyway, my kiddo had a good time and she got her first Jr. Ranger Badge.

A ranger suggested that I hike to Wagon Wheel Lake :shakehead: instead of hiking to Gladys Divide. But, I’ve been to Wagon wheel Lake and I know better. I’m even a little bit miffed that the ranger tried so hard to get me to do Wagon Wheel instead of Gladys. But he seemed like a nice guy so I’ll try not to hold it against him. :)

I started my hike at 6:30 AM and finished at 6:30 PM. The hike up to Flapjack lakes was easy for me, but I was getting hot so I jumped in the lake with all my clothes on. When I got out of the lake a swarm of blood sucking bugs tried to eat me. To avoid being eaten I sat in the lake with just my head sticking out of the water. I felt very refreshed after my dunk in that cold lake. When I was done swimming I got away from the area as fast as I could.

I had plenty of energy left to go for the Gladys Divide, 1,100 feet and one mile up the trail. The divide was great! There was just enough of a breeze on the divide to keep all the bugs away. I cooked up a big meaty protein filled lunch while I was soaking up the views.

I always hike alone, but when I was on the divide, I felt a little bit creeped out being all alone and so far from the trail head. The divide is a very surreal area.

Just before the divide I saw two deer and just before the finish of my hike I saw two grouse. Horseflies circled me and started following me several times but I managed to scare them off with my trekking poles.

GPS Totals from campsite to campsite

18.5 Miles RT
4,300 Feet Elevation Gain

More pictures, maps and details on my blog

http://mosswalks.blogspot.com/[…]/gladys-divide-and-flap-jack-lakes.html
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Flapjack Lakes — Jul 25, 2009 — nwskiscubahiker
Overnight
Features: Ripe berries
Issues: Bridge out | Bugs
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We finally got around to making this great hike up to Flapjack Lakes again this year. We recognized it was...
We finally got around to making this great hike up to Flapjack Lakes again this year. We recognized it was going to be HOT heading up the switchbacks below the lakes so we hit the trail at 7:30AM. The temperature was better than expected as we left the Staircase trailhead but the mosquitoes were a lot worse than expected. We stopped about a half mile from the trailhead and slathered on the bug juice. The bugs didn't bother us much at all during the rest of the hike. This trail starts off relatively flat for the first 4 miles until you turn onto the Flapjack Lakes trail. The next four miles on the Flapjack Lakes trail is nearly all switchbacks and some are pretty steep. I decided it would be a good idea to take some good breaks on on the uphill section and keep spirits high in consideration of the heat. The trail itself was in excellent condition with the exception of the Madeline Creek bridge. The bridge looks like it took a pretty good size tree right across the middle of it. It's marked as closed but we used it anyway. It just looked a little scary and holding on to the railing is a real good idea if you want to brave it. If not, there is a detour and creek ford that has been created. We made it to the Lakes by 12:00 so it took us 4.5 hours. On Saturday, the mosquitoes weren't bad at the lakes but the biting black flies were absolutely vicious. We slathered on more bug juice but even the DEET variety didn't really slow the flies down much. Plus, I got stung by a nasty bee. By 3:30, it got hot enough to justify a swim in the lake which was really nice. We turned in for the evening without the rain fly on the tent and were surprised to be awoken to rain in the middle of the night. The weather was crystal clear again Sunday morning so the tent dried up quickly. The black flies were vicious and the mosquitoes were picking up their attacks Sunday morning so we decided to take off. It took us 3.5 hours to get back to the trailhead, where it was in the mid-80's. Another thing to mention is the campsites at the Staircase Campground are virtually always full. We spent Friday night at a pretty good and pretty cheap ($85 / night) hotel in Hoodsport called the Glen Ayr. It was about a half hour drive from that hotel to the trailhead.
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Flapjack Lakes, Gladys Divide Primitive — Jul 15, 2009 — dadn
Overnight
Features: Wildflowers blooming
Issues: Blowdowns | Bridge out | Clogged drainage | Overgrown | Water on trail | Snow on trail | Bugs
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Overnight trip to Flapjack Lakes and Gladys Divide and to the top of Gladys mountain. Arrived at trailhead and ranger...
Overnight trip to Flapjack Lakes and Gladys Divide and to the top of Gladys mountain. Arrived at trailhead and ranger was posting signs saying Cougar(s) are in the area (they were finding deer kills) and that hiking alone was not recommended? So, I sharpened my walking pole and started my hike – being sure to make lots of noise. About 2 miles up the trail, I found a lone hiking boot in the middle of the trail! I looked around for a body and when I didn’t see any, I continued up the trail at a faster pace and making more noise. First 4 miles are along an old road bed and easy hiking with a few easy stream crossings. At 4 miles you turn off the road and follow the trail to Flapjack lakes. Here the trail begins up in earnest. At one creek crossing, the trail is blocked with a bypass indicated. I looked at the metal bridge and it’s now V-shaped…like a tree fell on it… and it’s definitely not something I want to cross with my pack. The bypass has you go down a steep slope to the creek, cross on some rocks that have about 2” of water running over them (I think it’s called ‘fording’) and then up the steep bank on the other side. Continuing up, the next intersection is with Black and White Lakes and a camping area with my first wildlife encounter…a deer…that was extremely friendly and not afraid of humans. I continued up toward Flapjack Lakes and arrived to the solitude of multiple camping areas, bear wire hangars, and no humans OR animals. I filtered water and began the final UP to Gladys Divide .. my destination for the night. This part of the trail finally breaks out of the woods and was spectacular…with flower fields, tarns, creeks, and the sheer wall of Cruiser Mtn in the background. I arrived at Gladys Divide in about 5 ½ hours and made a camp on some rocks on the other side of the divide, looking down at a large tarn below and the Hamma-Hamma valley, and mountains beyond….beautiful views. Next morning, beautiful sunrise and sunshine on my camp and I began my climb up Mt Gladys. There are some cairns to mark the way, but not enough. There are some small snowfields to cross, but nothing steep. I finally found the top and could see deep into the Olympics with snow/ice covered mountains and trees forever…spectacular spot to be…for about an hour. THEN, back down the 12? Miles and 4000’ ? to the car. At Flapjack lake, I refilled my water and was bothered by another deer staring at me. Further down the trail, a garter snake crossed in front of me, and a little further, I saw a squirrel. That’s it for ‘wildlife’! I didn’t see a human until I hit the old road/trail where a couple were resting for the climb to Flapjack Lakes for the night. Walking back to the car, I passed 3 other small day-hiking groups and then a group of at least 12 kids with a couple of ‘grown ups’. The rest of the trail to the car I picked up orange peels, candy wrappers, and also buried some of their Kleenex. Oh, and I saw the boot had been moved off the trail into the brush. Since the road/trail has had recent horse activity, my guess is that the boot fell off the horse/pack so I left it there…maybe someone will be back for it!
Sorry for the long report, but had a great time and exhausted..my GPS says I went 24 miles and 4700 elevation gain...but it was well worth it.
Sorry,all pics >1M
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Flapjack Lakes — May 16, 2009 — billm
Day hike
Features: Wildflowers blooming
Issues: Snow on trail
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Weather was fantastic and so was the hike. Trail clear to the final steep section, but then lots of snow...
Weather was fantastic and so was the hike. Trail clear to the final steep section, but then lots of snow to posthole through, definitely go for the waterproof boots and ideally gaiters too (though not all our party had them and we made it no problem). Great views of Mt. Cruiser! The lakes were, surprisingly to us, still completely frozen - no open water whatsoever. At least 4 feet of snow on the ground there. I wouldn't consider going beyond the lakes yet (i.e. towards Gladys Divide) w/out snowshoes, it's deep and soft.

The high bridge over Gladys Creek en route appears to be very solid, both surface and railings, despite its damaged, extremely twisted appearance. But a couple of our party who suffer from vertigo found crossing it a bit of an ordeal. We scouted for a ford alternative but while seemingly doable it was going to be wet and arguably riskier in case of a slip. We did however feel a bit stupid taking pictures of each other crossing the twisted bridge with the "Bridge Closed - Do Not Cross" sign in the background... would have felt a lot more stupid if the bridge chose that moment to fall down.
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Flapjack Lakes #114 — Jul 13, 2008 — bridgeburner
Day hike
Issues: Bugs
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We made a day hike out of this one. Started at 11:15, was at the JCT by 12:00 and FlapJack...

We made a day hike out of this one. Started at 11:15, was at the JCT by 12:00 and FlapJack by 14:00. The lake was too cold for a leisurely swim, by I was able to sprint to the islands for a few shots before horsefly's chased me off! We stumbled back down and were back at the base just after 18:00. Overall a decent hike. The trails were well maintained, though a little rocky in parts.

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Location
Flapjack Lakes (#114)
Olympics -- East
3.71 out of 5
Based on 7 votes
Featured In...

Day Hiking: Olympic Peninsula
by Craig Romano

To buy the full book, including maps, elevation profiles, photos, and more, visit:

A portion of all book sales from the links above benefits WTA and helps protect and maintain our trails.

Information about this hike provided in partnership with Mountaineers Books. Copyright © Craig Romano/The Mountaineers Books

Roundtrip 15.0 miles
Elevation Gain 3200 ft
Highest Point 3900 ft
Guidebooks & Maps
Day Hiking: Olympic Peninsula (Romano - Mountaineers Books)
Green Trails Mt Steel No. 167
Custom Correct Mount Skokomish-Lake Cushman; Contact: Olympic National Park
Wilderness Information Center
(360) 565-3100
www .nps.gov/olym; Notes: Dogs prohibited. National park entry fee. FR 24 sustained serious storm damage in December of 2007 forcing closure at Big Creek; consult ranger for current road status;

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Driving Directions
(47.5161, -123.3276) Open in new window
Red Marker North Fork Skokomish River and Flapjack Lakes
47.5161 -123.327583333

From Shelton travel north on US 101 for 15 miles to Hoodsport. Turn left (west) onto State Route 119, proceeding 9.3 miles to a T intersection with Forest Road 24. Make a sharp left. In 1.7 miles the pavement ends. Continue on a good gravel road (FR 24) and in 3.7 miles come to a junction. Turn right and drive 1.2 miles to the Staircase Ranger Station. Trailhead parking is on your right, across from the campground. Water and privies available.

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