It is possible to enjoy solitude on this very popular hike - if you start at the trailhead by 7:30 am on a weekday. Hoards of people hike to Snow Lake and quite a few hike up to Gem Lake to pitch their tents and hope for a little peace and quiet. Not today! At least 20 campers had the same idea. Going around Gem Lake and up Wright Mountain, however, is a different story. Very few risk the boot track and cairn markers to make it to the rock scramble, which is too bad, because the 360 degree view from up there is stunning. Kaleetan and Chair, Baker and Glacier, Daniel and Overcoat, Middle Fork and Thompson, and of course Gem and Snow Lakes down below. Add to that, the blueberries are at their peak on the path from Gem Lake up to Wright Mountain and I even left a few.

In spite of its popularity and all the work done on it, this trail remains a rocky ankle twister in many places. There are also mud puddles remaining from the last rain. Round trip is 11 miles with 1700 ft altitude gain.

Hikers: Two intermediate hikers - 7 miles w/ the 2k elevation gain & daypacks is more than casual for us, but at Snow Lake, we weren't tired yet so we decided to go on to Gem Lake. An 11 mile hike is probably close to our max (i.e. adding in the Gem Lake leg).

Parking lot about 11 am. We intended a 9 am start to beat the crowds, but I was worried about a fog report (and remembered a fog covered Lake Serene, which wasn't very fabulous).

The first part of the Snow Lake leg was pretty easy (explaining the kids and older folks on trail). There were a significant number of folks out (a Saturday). Some of the early folks were coming down as we went up. Things thinned out as we left Snow Lake (from Mile 3.5, you spend a mile+ skirting Snow Lake) for Gem.

Be sure to scramble up to the top of the rock above Snow Lake - it's a nice view from there & a great place to eat a snack.

There were lots of folks w/ just tennis shoes, my hiking companion amongst them. That was one reason we took this hike (over something more difficult) - she didn't have hiking boots. The Snow Lake leg seemed fine for her, but I was glad of my boots for the Gem Lake uphill (lots of loose rocks).

There are a few different places to go into Snow Lake. We didn't go down to the water until the path crossed the waterfall out of the lake (on the other side).

Taking the main trail around Snow Lake allows some nicer views off the back of the pass.

The last mile or 3/4 mile to Gem Lake was the most difficult part of the hike. Not really tough, but more taxing. It was nice that Gem Lake was just over the final rise (no descent). I liked Gem Lake better - it felt more like my own Lake, while Snow is so large.

There were a few folks at Gem Lake. But it felt worth the extra effort (another 1k climb). There's a bit of a contrast - and it's nice to see the clear blue in a smaller format.

The combo is a very good day hike for people who don't go hiking every weekend.

Insects were not a problem. There were a few flying around when we stopped at Gem Lake - my companion was bitten - I was not - thanks to long sleeves & some repellant.

On Tuesday we spent the morning putting together packs for a short trip into Gem Lake via Snow Lake (#1013 and #1012) although I wasn’t quite certain where we’d actually end up. We drove up to the pass, got Dad a parking pass from the automated kiosk, and then started scouting trail heads. The PCT-S (#2000-S) was nearly abandoned, PCT-N (#2000-N) looked like a weekend, and the trail head to Snow Lake (#1013) looked like a convention might be taking place somewhere on the side of the mountain. I’m not quite sure what got into me, but a strange compulsion took hold of me and I stopped my truck on the far side of the incredibly large and full parking lot for Snow Lake.
Packs loaded and dogs leashed we started our trek up the hill. Again I held back taking up the rear position of our line to ensure everyone was doing ok and so that I wouldn’t start running. Mom’s right foot had some blister action going so I got to play Doctor Matt and kept her company for quite a while. Justin was moving so fast with the trekking poles that someone might have imagined he likes to hike. The way up was jam packed with people traffic. You’d take a few steps and then have to park off to the side to let someone by. Over and over again.
After we crested the pass into Snow Lake a whistle was heard off down near the lake at the end of a boulder field. “Tweet, tweet, tweet” it was the same tone and the cadence was regular. At first I didn’t think much of it figuring it was a marmot or a kid playing with a rescue whistle. It did sound like a rescue whistle. It wasn’t stopping. There were people stopped all along the short descent into the lake’s depression listening and discussing what it might be. Maybe it *was* a rescue whistle? Maybe someone should go see to whoever was blowing it? I took off down the trail, dogs trailing behind me. As I got closer I started yelling “If you’re hurt keep whistling so I can find you!” The whistles didn’t stop. Finally I got to a point where I had to leave the trail to get any closer to the whistler. I unhooked the dogs and set out over the steep boulder field.
Then the whistle cadence changed and I saw my prankster. A big fat marmot who hadn’t gotten the memo stating that marmots are only supposed to sound like marmots and not rescue whistles was sitting atop a boulder laughing so hard he looked like he might burst at the seams. I dubbed him “Lunch” and worked my way back up to the trail. Little bastard!
The hike up to Gem Lake from the north side of the Snow Lake depression is much improved once the snow melts away. By evening we had browsed our way through blueberries and arrived at the edge of Gem Lake. Mom, who had been fighting valiantly against blisters the whole way, was about done for so we set up camp for the night. Large plates of spaghetti were prepared and eaten with determination. Vast hoards of mosquitos were fed quarts of well spaghettied blood. Chubby bats made sport of well-nourished blood suckers as the sun went down in the west.
The Perseids are still falling and the five sipped our beers (it’s amazing what you can smuggle in the empty spaces of an ultra-light pack) and hooted as they came zipping through the upper atmosphere.
The next morning I woke up early, dawned my shoes, grabbed a water bottle and two dogs and started running for the Wildcat Lakes. I more or less cleared Gem Lake, but there was a party of trail workers and USDA FS Rangers camped on either side of the trail as it snaked its way through the pass to Wildcat Lakes. Not feeling like leashing the mutts (who were of course on heal and under voice command) I turned back to the camp.
By the time I returned the mosquitoes were out and swarming. We struck camp deciding that breakfast could wait until we located a blood-sucker-free-zone. We ended up making coffee and eating down near the outflow for Snow Lake which was perfect. No mosquitoes whatsoever.
The rest of the trail down was uneventful. Mom’s foot was still bothering her, but she seemed to be doing ok and took off with Justin at the lead. Dad and I chatted a bit, Tess and I did the same. We descended.
After the switch backs the people headed into the area got thicker than the mosquitoes at Gem Lake. There was at least one party of 20 or more trooping up the trail oblivious to the 12 person rule in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. Many other smaller groups were headed up as well.

Late start at 10:30, at which time the (large) parking lot was almost half full. Lots of people all the way to Snow Lake, though once past the first lake access point, the crowds thinned out. Just a handful of people on the trail to Gem Lake, and none while I was there.

The trail was in great condition. No blow-downs, and just a few slightly muddy spots. The trail is quite rocky in parts, especially when crossing the (many) talus fields.

Fireweed appeared to be in full bloom, and quite a few other flowers could still be seen as well. Some blueberries were ripe, and most should be very soon. Few bugs on the trail. Heard lots of pikas (and even caught a glimpse of some).