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Oyster Dome

Last modified Mar 11, 2010 07:49 PM
Contributors: Valgard
The view from Oyster Dome, by Hiker Jim.

A glacial-polished and fractured exposed hunk of sheer cliff on Blanchard Mountain, Oyster Dome is an intriguing and scenic natural landmark. Its base is littered with jumbled boulders, talus fields, and bat-breeding caves. And from atop, views abound of the Sound, mountains, and a smorgasbord of islands. A popular hiking destination year-round, Oyster Dome is the pearl of the Chuckanut Mountains.

Your route begins on the Pacific Northwest Trail, a 1200-mile long-distance trail-in-the-making from the Olympic Coast to Montana's Glacier National Park. Through a uniform forest of second-growth conifers, gain elevation steadily. A few giant snags and remnant firs stand testament to the cathedral forests that once blanketed this region. The trail is well constructed and maintained, thanks not to the government but to dedicated volunteers.

Smell sweet maritime air as you ascend the verdant slopes of Blanchard Mountain. Rising from Samish Bay, Blanchard is the only place in the Cascades where mountain meets sea. A recreational and biological gem between Bellingham and Mount Vernon, much of this landmass was slated to be logged. But due to the work of Conservation Northwest and other local organizations, a consensus of sorts has been reached, with the Washington State Department of Natural Resources protecting Blanchard's trails and guaranteeing that its core will remain in a natural state.

In 1 mile reach a small ledge with big views out to the San Juan Islands and Olympic Mountains. In another 0.5 mile reach a signed junction (elev. 1100 ft). Head left on the Samish Bay Connection Trail. Now on rougher tread, make a gentle traverse across Blanchard's western slopes, hopping across a few streams in the process. In 0.5 mile from the junction, reach another junction, this one with the Oyster Dome Trail. The way left leads to a logging road. Head right for your objective. The grade once again steepens and you enter a damp, dark glen. Pass giant erratics, springboard-notched cedar stumps, and an ice-age interpretive sign before coming to a junction with the Talus Trail.

To reach the base of Oyster Dome, an area referred to as the Amphitheater Bat Caves, proceed left. After a tricky creek crossing, the short trail delivers you to a jumbled mess of talus beneath sheer cliffs. It's quite a sight. This rocky chaos contains numerous caves. Extremely hazardous to explore, they should be left for the resident bat colonies.

To get to the top of the dome, continue 0.1 mile on the main path, climbing steeply to yet another junction. Head left on the Rock Trail. Pass rusty old cable and other logging relics. Cross a small creek, then make one final push, breaking out of the forest onto the rim of the open promontory. Be careful. Keep children and dogs nearby. Oyster Dome's abrupt drop may lead you to clam up. Its views, however, are succulent. Spread out before you are the San Juan Islands, Fildalgo Island, Whidbey Island, Vancouver Island, the snow-capped Olympic Mountains, the Skagit River flats and a whole lot of saltwater. Count islands, watch boats, and soak up the sun's rays.

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There are 54 trip reports for this hike. See all trip reports for this hike.
Oyster Dome — Feb 07, 2010 — HikerJim
Day hike
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Another warm hike on dirt during what has been a warm winter with not much snow. I wanted to get...
Another warm hike on dirt during what has been a warm winter with not much snow. I wanted to get in some mileage and still get home in time to watch the Super Bowl. I'm getting a little tired of I-90 hikes and decided it was time to head north. I was out the door at 6:35 am. It was still dark and a little drizzly. The drive to within 15 miles of Bellingham goes surprisingly quickly. It is 74 miles from North Seattle to the trailhead. I took Exit 240 for Alger. A left then another quick left on Barrel Springs Road brought me to the signed dirt road on the right. Just a mile up the road brought me to the lower trailhead for Blanchard Mountain. I was the first car in the lot. It was just before 8:00 am when I got started.

I repeated a trip I did on my first visit to Blanchard Mountain in 2005. I posted a map in that report and I'll add another link to it here. This time I did it clockwise. The trail starts a short way down the road from the parking lot. It's another 8/10 of a mile to the upper trailhead. This first trail is a nice route winding through forest. It has a number of spring flowers but even with the warmth there are none up yet. At the upper trailhead I found only one car.

The Lily Lake Trail starts a short way down the road. It is a very gentle trail with a few long easy switchbacks to gain elevation. It is used extensively by horses and bicycles and was built at a very easy grade for them. The trail is bordered by miles of sword ferns. Millions of them. It is about as green as any trail. The dark low clouds really brought out the colors. One woman runner passed my coming down. She was the only person I was to see for the next three hours.

There is one unmarked junction on the Lily Lake Trail. Left goes over to Max's Shortcut Trail. Right is the way I went. Both go up to Lily Lake in about the same distance. I stopped at the small pond looking for any traces of skunk cabbage. None are up so far. There are several sets of log benches along the trail. I had no need to rest. At long last the trail reaches the old railroad grade that heads right to Lizard Lake. This is the Pacific Northwest Trail. I turned left.

In a short distance I met the upper end of Max's Shortcut. Next was the trail over to Lily Lake. I saved that for the return. The outlet of Lily Lake flows into a swampy area before it turns to a creek again and descends. The trail goes along the side of the swamp/creek. The swamp is filled with skunk cabbage in the spring. There shouldn't be any up in early February but this winter has been unusually warm. I ventured out into the goo and found a few skunk cabbage shoots just poking up. In about three weeks the there should be a riot of big green leaves and yellow spathes.

The trail descends gently with old logging cables found in a number of places. It crosses the creek twice and soon reaches another unmarked junction. Left is the Oyster Dome trail down to Chuckanut Drive. Right is the trail over to the Oyster Dome viewpoint. In short order I was up to the first viewpoint. I could see down to the water but clouds were swirling all around. At the upper viewpoint I had an early lunch. I was surprised to find nobody else up there during my whole visit.

I took a few minutes to head over to the high point. It's all forested but one spot had a view over to North Butte. It was in the clouds. Down I went as I retraced my route back to Lily Lake. This time I took the short trail to the lake. I stopped at the horse camp for a look down the lake. Next I headed along the short to the hiker camp and on. The trail has had some work since 2005 with a few new boardwalks. One freshly felled tree shows that beavers have been busy. The trail up to North Butte was drier and easier to follow than I remembered.

The top of the butte is rock. The trail leads all the way up. I could just see Oyster Dome and not much else. The clouds were all around me. I went into the woods just below the top and found some really bright moss hanging on everything. The higher parts of the overall hike were very green with moss. That was the prime theme of my photos. On the way down I soon met the second person of the day. My watch battery had died on the drive up and I had no idea what time it was. He let me know it was 11:40. I could hardly believe that I had been on the trail for over 3 1/2 hours.

I hiked past Lily Lake and turned left on the railroad grade. It's about a mile over to Lizard Lake. There is a junction near the lake. Right drops down the Alternate Incline Trail to a road above the upper trailhead. Left goes to Lizard Lake in just a minute or two. The trail goes right along the lake shore. There are a lot of skunk cabbage along the trail here. I noticed a few were popping up. I also went to the camp at the head of the lake. Here I found one skunk cabbage with a few leaves already.

From the lake it's all down hill on the Alternate Incline Trail. On my 2005 visit the Incline Trail was still open It is now closed though both ends are easy to find. The big red "This Is Not A Trail" signs make the closed off trail easier to find. I had no interest in hiking a closed and very steep trail and stayed on the Alternate Incline Trail. It drops though some old second growth forest. In due time I came out on the gravel road. Here I met a group of four hikers. The road is much narrower than I recalled. Brush has narrowed it down and it is much more like a trail. It's still wide but not like it was. I passed two bikers along the road.

At the upper trailhead I found four vehicles, less than I was expecting. All that was left was a quick jaunt down the trail to the lower trailhead. Down there I found four trucks with horse trailers and two cars. It was 1:30 when I finished. I covered about 11 miles with 2500' of gain and succeeded in being done be early afternoon. It's only about 1:15 to drive home, not much longer than from Snoqualmie Pass. I saw 11 people over 5 1/2 hours but only three during the first 4 1/2 hours. These trails make for easy snow free walking for most winters. I'm sure I'll be back in a year or two.

40 photos have been posted at: http://www.hikingnorthwest.com. Go to "Trips-2010" on the left margin.
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Oyster Dome — Feb 06, 2010 — treeana
Day hike
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We hiked up the old steep trail to Lizard and Lily Lake from Barrel Springs road, and from there connected...
We hiked up the old steep trail to Lizard and Lily Lake from Barrel Springs road, and from there connected with the trail over to the Oyster Dome. Probably about 20 people, and 10 dogs enjoying the views and the sun at the dome. Looking down to the talus and boulder field below, ( the Bat Caves,, could see several more folks wandering around on the rocks. Nice area to relax, and gawk out over the sound and islands, usually crowded though. We did sneak up here in December, when there was snow and ice, on the steep trail up from the Bat Caves, and only met two other folks.
Hiked out the trail down to Chuckanut Drive, but took the turn off leading to the road end at the hang glider launch. no big birds leaping off
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Oyster Dome — Jan 24, 2010 — terpene
Day hike
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Having now been there, I can confirm that like Rattlesnake Ledge, which has no rattlesnakes, and Heather Lake, which has...
Having now been there, I can confirm that like Rattlesnake Ledge, which has no rattlesnakes, and Heather Lake, which has no heather, Oyster Dome has no oysters. What it does have, though, is lots of hikers. I saw at least a hundred people on this apparently wildly popular trail.

At 9:45, when I started up the trail, there were only three cars at the trailhead and very few folks on the trail. On the way down, however, I felt like a fish swimming against the current of hikers on the way up. So if planning on this hike, get there early or avoid weekends like the plague.

The trail itself is unusual for a couple of reasons. One, the tread is very soft (covered with Douglas Fir needles) and a pleasure to walk on. Loose rock on the treadway is almost nonexistent. Secondly, it is a trail where steep sections alternate with flat ones all the way to the top.

The views from the summit down to Samish Bay are pretty spectacular, and quite a contrast from the usual alpine scenery.

All in all, a pleasant hike if you can avoid the crowds.
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Oyster Dome — Jan 10, 2010 — Steve & Eydie Vaschakas
Day hike
Issues: Mudholes
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A pearl of lowland winter hiking. The first 1.5 miles is a fine trail with no problems. The last 1.5...
A pearl of lowland winter hiking. The first 1.5 miles is a fine trail with no problems. The last 1.5 miles is rugged, muddy, and has steep sections like any good moutain trail. Superb hike.
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Oyster Dome — Dec 27, 2009 — john deer
Day hike
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Oyster Dome seems to be a popular destination right now - as it should be. We started from Chuckanut...
Oyster Dome seems to be a popular destination right now - as it should be. We started from Chuckanut Drive on the "bonus" elevation gain and mileage route. After a 1000' feet of gain we decided on a clockwise loop at the trail junction. From here there are 3 mandatory side trips and one optional side trip. The elevation gain comes in clumps and after several big clumps, we went to the optional side trip - the rock outcrop at the glacier information sign. This little bump is always easier to get up than down. Then another clump or two of gain and we diverted to the "bat caves". The new bridge across the creek is somewhat suspect and there were seveal use trails. We stopped on a large slab for a quick snack and to search for some bats - none were found. Then there were 2 more clumps of gain to get to the Oyster Dome lunch spot - another side trip. The views of the San Juan Islands are quite dramatic from this point. The Olympics were kind of visible but a marine layer and incoming clouds obscured them a little. Apparently, on a really clear day, one can see the Blue Glacier on Mt Olympus from this spot.

Then it was back down to the main trail and up past the beaver pond area. There was no evidence of recent beaver activity here but... At the junction to the camp sites, we had another mandatory side trip to North Butte. An eager beaver had toppled a reasonably large cedar tree and was working on another. We ruined the solitude of a couple on the blob summit of North Butte and then we continued a short distance through the trees to one of my favorite views of Mt Baker. It seems to be a very unique angle and includes views of Twin Peaks. Some of the "trail" to North Butte is hard to follow and some is quite muddy but the views make it all worth while.

From here we retraced our tracks back to the main trail and followed Max's Shortcut - I don't think it is really shorter - down and around to the hang glider launch point and more views of the Skagit Valley. Since this area is also accessible by car, the atmosphere was festive. Then it was down, down, down to finish the loop trip. My tootsies were pretty sore and tender at the end of the day.

A map of this area (in .pdf format) is available at www.pnt.org - the site for the Pacific Northwest Trail. Many parts of our trip were on the PNT.
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Location
Puget Sound and Islands -- North Sound
Department of Natural Resources, Northwest Region
3.74 out of 5
Based on 31 votes
Featured In...

Day Hiking: North Cascades
by Craig Romano

To buy the full book, including maps, elevation profiles, photos, and more, visit:

A portion of all book sales from the links above benefits WTA and helps protect and maintain our trails.

Information about this hike provided in partnership with Mountaineers Books. Copyright © Craig Romano/The Mountaineers Books

Roundtrip 6.5 miles
Elevation Gain 1900 ft
Highest Point 2025 ft
Features
Mountain views
Summits
Wildlife
Guidebooks & Maps
Day Hiking: North Cascades (Romano - Mountaineers Books)
USGS Bow

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Driving Directions
(48.6086, -122.4334) Open in new window
Red Marker Oyster Dome
48.6086333333 -122.433366667

From Mount Vernon head north on I-5 to exit 231. Follow State Route 11 (Chuckanut Drive) north for 10.2 miles. The trailhead is on the right side of the road just after passing milepost 10. There is parking on the left (west) shoulder of the highway. If you're coming from Bellingham follow SR 11 south for 11.5 miles to the trailhead (elev. 100 ft).

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