Stand in awe watching the swift-moving waters of the North Fork Skokomish River barrel and thunder over a series of cascades. A great hike anytime of year, Staircase Rapids is especially impressive during the spring runoff. Hikers of all ages will be delighted on this easy and captivating hike.

The trek to Staircase Rapids is a heck of a lot easier today than it was in 1890 when Lieutenant Joseph O'Neil, accompanied by a group of scientists, led an army expedition here. The O'Neil Party was intent on traversing the Olympic Peninsula. Lacking the wonderful trails that now grace the region, O'Neil and company cut a mule trail up the North Fork Skokomish River to help transport supplies to base camps along the way. Among the many findings that this expedition would report was a realization that this wild area deserved to be protected. In his trip report O'Neil wrote that the Olympic interior would serve admirably as a national park. Nice forward thinking, Lieutenant O'Neil-I salute you.

From the main parking area, cross the North Fork Skokomish on a solid bridge to begin this hike, which follows part of the original O'Neil Mule Trail. Immediately pass a side trail that leads left to the small hydro plant that powers the ranger station. About 0.1 mile beyond, pass another side trail. This path leads to what was once an incredibly large cedar. Today it leads to an incredibly large windfall. The old cedar yielded to a winter storm in the late 1990s.

A few more minutes of gentle hiking delivers you to the riverbank. As you begin marching up the valley, a series of roaring rapids and frothing falls awaits you. Follow the thundering river from one mesmerizing spot to another. At 0.8 mile is a junction. The trail right leads to a bridge that has been out since the mid-1990s. If the Park Service ever gets the funding to replace it, the bridge will once again provide a nice loop option. Meanwhile, ask Congress how they find billions of dollars for boondoggles but not a few thousand for trails.

Continue your hike up the river valley on the much quieter and less-used Four Stream Trail. Soon come to Beaver Flats, a nice spot to soak your feet in the refreshing river. Next, pass through a forest of silver and charred snags, thanks to a wildfire created by a careless camper in the late 1980s. New greenery is growing in, so the views of Mount Lincoln rising over the valley won't be around much longer.

Emerging back in mature forest, the trail follows alongside a much calmer river. At 2 miles the trail drops down to Four Stream, which for most of the year is too high, cold, and fast to ford. The trail doesn't go much farther anyway, making this a good spot to turn around.