Joffrey Lakes, BC, Upper Joffrey Lake & BC Packraft — Monday, Jun. 10, 2024

Bottom Line:

This is a (moderate) hike out of Pemberton, BC which is ~3 hours of driving from Bellingham (depending on metro Vancouver transit time). This hike requires a (free) permit from BC Parks to limit crowds and protect the wilderness from overuse. The permit was easy to get - it is available 2 days in advance, although some folks had secured the morning of. There is a string of 3 lakes climbing into the stunning glaciated alpine. The lakes are greener in color right now but will become a milky blue as summer melt generates glacial runoff. There are additional (difficult) hikes beyond the upper lake to summit a couple peaks - only one is non-technical. The pack-raft to the end of Upper Lake was stunning, with the crystal-clear (as of now) tropical-blue waters, and overhanging cliffs and glaciers (see video). Reservations are needed for a reason!

Stats:

• Distance: ~7-1/2 miles (including pack-raft)
• Duration: 4-3/2 hours (you will not want to leave)
• Vertical: 1450 ft
• Road/Parking/Permits: From Pemberton, the trailhead is a short distance up Duffy Lake Road. During the summer, a day-use permit is required, and a ranger will check your permit. There is plenty of parking for the number of permits issues (including an overflow lot). Toilets are available, and the road/lot are in excellent condition. No fee for parking or the trail reservation. Closest cell reception in Pemberton.
• Weather: Sunny with temperatures in the 60s and 70s. There was a slight breeze that stymied my hope for glassy waters and optimal watercolor! There were a surprising number of mosquitos already, but generally just in the trees.
• Flora/Fauna: This is bear country! Black bears are common, and there are also grizzlies. However, with the traffic this trail gets, a grizzly is unlikely to be a problem. We did carry a horn and bear spray. Also saw deer, grouse, chipmunks and something "beaver like" near the trailhead. Lupine is prolific from Whistler, through Pemberton and up to the trailhead - a real treat!
• Water: There is water available to filter the entire length of the trail, so we did not carry any water. The trail has many flowing creeks, and the lake water can also be filtered. Holloway falls between Middle and Upper Joffrey Lakes is a stunner - an elegant multi-tiered waterfall that was just gushing (see video)
• Trail: Excellent condition and mostly dry. Patches of snow at higher elevations but nothing requiring microspikes. The trail runs from Lower, to Middle and then Upper Joffrey Lake. Lower lake is 100 yards from the trailhead and has distant views of the peaks and glaciers you will be seeing all day. The longest section is from Lower to Middle Lake, with beautiful forest, a section cut through a scree slope, many elegant streams and waterfalls, and views of surrounding snowy peaks. The trail from Middle to Upper is short, but quite steep and rocky. It passes the stunning Holloway Falls - really wish I had my tripod for this unexpectedly beautiful waterfall!! Once you reach the Upper Joffrey Lake basin, you will be awestruck by the snowy peaks encircling the back of the basin, and the beauty of the lake itself. This is a prime packrafting spot IMHO, but I had the lake to myself (the water is ice cold, so it is not without risk; wore a lifejacket). Rafting is a good way to get away from all the hikers on the rocky (north) shoreline. The trail also continues around the righthand side of the lake to a backcountry campground on the opposite shore, but with significant snow, microspikes are recommended. Only saw a handful of folks making that journey while I was out on the lake. The end of the lake has some large waterfalls coming down sheer cliffs from hanging icefalls above - I would guess that the best view really is out on the water! Don't forward the views back towards your starting point - from the far end of the lake, Upper Joffrey looks like a hanging lake with even more snowy peaks across a valley to the north, a perspective you would otherwise not get.
• Packraft: The lake is deep and cold, so best to stay near the shore if paddling without a wetsuit. The far end of the lake is shallow, and the watercolor is amazing - blue and crystal clear! There are a number of waterfalls draining into the lake on the route shown in the map below. Also, there is an island at the far end of the lake that provides a stunning contrast with the cliffs and glaciers literally hanging over your head! 
• Takeaway: This trail has changed over the years. The provincial park was established in 1996, and the trail has mellowed out significantly with a rebuild. It is a beautiful, well-maintained trail, nice and wide throughout, and with only a few rocky and/or steep sections (see video). Pictures online will show more milky-blue waters - that will be from later glacial runoff. Early summer, the lakes have a lot of snow melt and rainwater in them. The trail is definitely family-friendly and saw quite a number of little kids making the trek (way to go!)

Attached a 4k video which includes video from the trail itself, as well as the pack-raft on Upper Joffrey Lake, which probably had the most spectacular backdrop of any pack-raft to date (and we have done Lake Louise). Shorter real posted to Instagram, including a reel on "the bears".

More Information on this Trip Report

• https://www.instagram.com/wta_alpinewanderer/