Trip Reports

I joined the swarms who descended en masse to get in one more late season hike. It was an exquisite day in the mountains. I picked Snow Lake since I hadn't been there in quite a few years and I was looking for something a little easier. The trail was indeed wet as others have reported - about as wet as the Rachel Lake/Rampart Ridge Trail in the summer. The mountains had a dusting of snow that reminded me of powdered sugar on brownies. There was about an inch or so of snow on the north facing slopes of the lake. I appreciated having my hiking poles, but I'm pregnant and a bit wobblier than usual. All in all a blissful day in the NW.

Made the hike to Snow Lakes on a day of a weather window of good conditions after the previous day's hard rain. I was on the same trail about five weeks ago. There has been a dramatic change in the amount of water everywhere-on the trail, waterfalls and the higher level of the lake.. There were some parts of the trail that had turned into a small stream as the path of least resistance was found. Expect a lot of mud on the trail and standing water. Except for some ground cover, most of the fall colors are gone but it is a beautiful area this time of year as the clouds drift in and out and with the higher peaks showing a dusting of fresh snow.

We thought that a Friday in the middle of October, with below-freezing weather forecast, would give Snow Lake Trail some semblance of wildness, but no such luck. Crowded as always, especially when we were walking back on Saturday. Most campsites taken by the time we got there around 5pm, though we found a sweet one on a bluff.

Oh well, the fall colors were spectacular, the lake pretty as always, late blueberries sweet, mild frostbyte --- priceless.

Anyone knows where the the trail that forks left at the top of the ridge go? We didn't have time to investigate...

Snow Lake 10/3/2009

What a beautiful crisp autumn day it was ! The forecast rain did not happen so I carried my rain gear in my pack all day. Our low temperature was 32 degrees at the parking lot with a high of about 43 in the late afternoon. Frost was on the bushes and ice on the trail in the shady spots. There were some beautiful ice crystals too. It was a mix of sun and clouds with more clouds later in the day. My group of 6 Mountaineers were rewarded for not canceling due to the bad weather forecast. We were all prepared for a cold wet day, but we got a nice day instead.
 
Trail 1013 climbs 1300 feet from the Alpental parking lot to the ridge top pass overlooking the lake at 4400 ft. Then the trail drops 400 feet to the lake shore. The stone foundations of a shelter building (probably built by the CCC in the 1930’s) remain near the shore line. A tiny waterfall drops into a picturesque pool just above the shelter. We left the crowd at the main beach area and continued on around the north side of the lake on the route to the lake outlet and the high trail to Gem Lake. We had lunch on a cold, sunny little peninsula with a full lake view. After lunch on the trail just above the lake shore we watched trout swimming in the super clear, clean , turquoise water. Then we proceeded on to admire the north side views of the Middle Fork Snoqualmie river valley.

On return we detoured at the ridge top and had a 2nd lunch break on a huge flat boulder with a full view of the lake basin. Here a bluebird amused us and came very close for birdseed. From this spot the , now abandoned, old trail proceeds across and then down the valley, finally joining the new trail at about the 1.5 mile point up from the parking lot. This old trail is more scenic and lonely but it does have some obstacles to cross. There are two small waterfalls and a major rock fall area to cross. Also a view of tiny Source Lake below, which is the source of the South Fork Snoqualmie river. Snow Lake drains into the Middle Fork Snoqualmie river.

Snow Lake is ringed with craggy peaks which all got a dusting of snow overnight: Denny, The Tooth, Chair, Wright, Roosevelt, Snoqualmie, and Bryant. These mountains rise about 2000 ft. above the lake shore. The pass is on the ridge line between Chair and Snoqualmie peaks.
  
There are 6 criteria for a classic trail, it is rare for any trail to have them all. Snow Lake scored very highly on this day.
1. Forest yes, classic old growth fir/hemlock
2. Flowers/berries/fall color yes all, sweet blueberries
3. Water yes, lake and baby waterfalls
4. Wildlife yes, bluebird, raven, pika, trout, other birds.
5. Views yes, lake and mountains all around
6. Solitude partial

I first saw Snow Lake in 1992. Thousands of hikers come here each year , because it’s a beautiful and accessible area. This is one of the jewels of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness.

 
Statistics: 8 miles, 1800 ft. gain
                    62 miles from my Seattle home.

Robert Michelson
Seattle Mountaineers

It is possible to enjoy solitude on this very popular hike - if you start at the trailhead by 7:30 am on a weekday. Hoards of people hike to Snow Lake and quite a few hike up to Gem Lake to pitch their tents and hope for a little peace and quiet. Not today! At least 20 campers had the same idea. Going around Gem Lake and up Wright Mountain, however, is a different story. Very few risk the boot track and cairn markers to make it to the rock scramble, which is too bad, because the 360 degree view from up there is stunning. Kaleetan and Chair, Baker and Glacier, Daniel and Overcoat, Middle Fork and Thompson, and of course Gem and Snow Lakes down below. Add to that, the blueberries are at their peak on the path from Gem Lake up to Wright Mountain and I even left a few.

In spite of its popularity and all the work done on it, this trail remains a rocky ankle twister in many places. There are also mud puddles remaining from the last rain. Round trip is 11 miles with 1700 ft altitude gain.

Even though it was Friday the parking lot had many cars and there were plenty of people on the trail, mostly going down at 1pm. Seems like a very popular hike.

The trail is in great conditions, even though it is a very rocky trail. I would recommend hiking it in good sturdy boots with ankle support and maybe even hiking poles. It's the kind of trail you can easily twist your ankles at.

The lake was stunning with crystal blue water, some people even swam in it. I thought the water was too cold. The views on this whole hike were fantastic, no fall color yet though.

The BLUEBERRIES!!! They were everywhere around the Snow Lake, and boy, were they good!!! I spent about an hour speed-eating the blueberries and they just didn't seem to end. I highly recommend bringing a small container for blueberries so you can bring them back home with you.

To end off the perfect day it started raining a little at around 3:30pm and it seems tomorrow is going to be even more rainy.

Snow Lake-Swimming with frogs 9-2-09
So Nancy and I were going to do Tonga Ridge today so she could get some blueberries, but after I told her it would be 3 hour drive for me each way she kindly suggested Snow Lake. I’d only been there once so I said YES! We met at 9:00 and started shortly after. Lots of hiking groups going up today and a few dogs, but none where as cute as Timber & Cedar. We had planned on getting to Gem Lake today but around 1:00 it was getting hot and I suggested jumping in Snow Lake instead of continuing on. Nancy said she wanted to pick some berries and we agreed to meet at the inlet, but Cedar didn’t want her to pick berries today so she joined me at the lake. This would be my first time cooling off in a lake hiking, I got in with all clothes on. & hoped I dry somewhat before hiking out..Next time I might plan some cuter undergarments and go for it and then put on dry clothes.. guys have it so easy!
The water was so clear and beautiful and we picked a great spot with a nice ledge for sitting in the water. I saw a couple of frogs and one really liked me and ended up getting in my hand and just staying there for a long time. I think Nancy got some good shots of this. The water felt so exhilarating! I loved every moment, and really didn’t want to get out. But I knew I had to dry a bit. Then it was Nancy’s turn, she wasn’t too excited about getting in but she did it, and I think she really liked it. It was so worth the hike just for the jump in the lake. A group of fun older hikers soon joined in the fun and a few got in the water, they said there was a group of skinny dippers at Gem. We got 10 miles in today and it was a really nice hike with great company tons of berry eating along the way. I learned something new eat the berries up high, cuz you never know who peed on the low one’s next to the trail.. I didn’t even think about that..
 

Hikers: Two intermediate hikers - 7 miles w/ the 2k elevation gain & daypacks is more than casual for us, but at Snow Lake, we weren't tired yet so we decided to go on to Gem Lake. An 11 mile hike is probably close to our max (i.e. adding in the Gem Lake leg).

Parking lot about 11 am. We intended a 9 am start to beat the crowds, but I was worried about a fog report (and remembered a fog covered Lake Serene, which wasn't very fabulous).

The first part of the Snow Lake leg was pretty easy (explaining the kids and older folks on trail). There were a significant number of folks out (a Saturday). Some of the early folks were coming down as we went up. Things thinned out as we left Snow Lake (from Mile 3.5, you spend a mile+ skirting Snow Lake) for Gem.

Be sure to scramble up to the top of the rock above Snow Lake - it's a nice view from there & a great place to eat a snack.

There were lots of folks w/ just tennis shoes, my hiking companion amongst them. That was one reason we took this hike (over something more difficult) - she didn't have hiking boots. The Snow Lake leg seemed fine for her, but I was glad of my boots for the Gem Lake uphill (lots of loose rocks).

There are a few different places to go into Snow Lake. We didn't go down to the water until the path crossed the waterfall out of the lake (on the other side).

Taking the main trail around Snow Lake allows some nicer views off the back of the pass.

The last mile or 3/4 mile to Gem Lake was the most difficult part of the hike. Not really tough, but more taxing. It was nice that Gem Lake was just over the final rise (no descent). I liked Gem Lake better - it felt more like my own Lake, while Snow is so large.

There were a few folks at Gem Lake. But it felt worth the extra effort (another 1k climb). There's a bit of a contrast - and it's nice to see the clear blue in a smaller format.

The combo is a very good day hike for people who don't go hiking every weekend.

Insects were not a problem. There were a few flying around when we stopped at Gem Lake - my companion was bitten - I was not - thanks to long sleeves & some repellant.

On Tuesday we spent the morning putting together packs for a short trip into Gem Lake via Snow Lake (#1013 and #1012) although I wasn’t quite certain where we’d actually end up. We drove up to the pass, got Dad a parking pass from the automated kiosk, and then started scouting trail heads. The PCT-S (#2000-S) was nearly abandoned, PCT-N (#2000-N) looked like a weekend, and the trail head to Snow Lake (#1013) looked like a convention might be taking place somewhere on the side of the mountain. I’m not quite sure what got into me, but a strange compulsion took hold of me and I stopped my truck on the far side of the incredibly large and full parking lot for Snow Lake.
Packs loaded and dogs leashed we started our trek up the hill. Again I held back taking up the rear position of our line to ensure everyone was doing ok and so that I wouldn’t start running. Mom’s right foot had some blister action going so I got to play Doctor Matt and kept her company for quite a while. Justin was moving so fast with the trekking poles that someone might have imagined he likes to hike. The way up was jam packed with people traffic. You’d take a few steps and then have to park off to the side to let someone by. Over and over again.
After we crested the pass into Snow Lake a whistle was heard off down near the lake at the end of a boulder field. “Tweet, tweet, tweet” it was the same tone and the cadence was regular. At first I didn’t think much of it figuring it was a marmot or a kid playing with a rescue whistle. It did sound like a rescue whistle. It wasn’t stopping. There were people stopped all along the short descent into the lake’s depression listening and discussing what it might be. Maybe it *was* a rescue whistle? Maybe someone should go see to whoever was blowing it? I took off down the trail, dogs trailing behind me. As I got closer I started yelling “If you’re hurt keep whistling so I can find you!” The whistles didn’t stop. Finally I got to a point where I had to leave the trail to get any closer to the whistler. I unhooked the dogs and set out over the steep boulder field.
Then the whistle cadence changed and I saw my prankster. A big fat marmot who hadn’t gotten the memo stating that marmots are only supposed to sound like marmots and not rescue whistles was sitting atop a boulder laughing so hard he looked like he might burst at the seams. I dubbed him “Lunch” and worked my way back up to the trail. Little bastard!
The hike up to Gem Lake from the north side of the Snow Lake depression is much improved once the snow melts away. By evening we had browsed our way through blueberries and arrived at the edge of Gem Lake. Mom, who had been fighting valiantly against blisters the whole way, was about done for so we set up camp for the night. Large plates of spaghetti were prepared and eaten with determination. Vast hoards of mosquitos were fed quarts of well spaghettied blood. Chubby bats made sport of well-nourished blood suckers as the sun went down in the west.
The Perseids are still falling and the five sipped our beers (it’s amazing what you can smuggle in the empty spaces of an ultra-light pack) and hooted as they came zipping through the upper atmosphere.
The next morning I woke up early, dawned my shoes, grabbed a water bottle and two dogs and started running for the Wildcat Lakes. I more or less cleared Gem Lake, but there was a party of trail workers and USDA FS Rangers camped on either side of the trail as it snaked its way through the pass to Wildcat Lakes. Not feeling like leashing the mutts (who were of course on heal and under voice command) I turned back to the camp.
By the time I returned the mosquitoes were out and swarming. We struck camp deciding that breakfast could wait until we located a blood-sucker-free-zone. We ended up making coffee and eating down near the outflow for Snow Lake which was perfect. No mosquitoes whatsoever.
The rest of the trail down was uneventful. Mom’s foot was still bothering her, but she seemed to be doing ok and took off with Justin at the lead. Dad and I chatted a bit, Tess and I did the same. We descended.
After the switch backs the people headed into the area got thicker than the mosquitoes at Gem Lake. There was at least one party of 20 or more trooping up the trail oblivious to the 12 person rule in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. Many other smaller groups were headed up as well.

Late start at 10:30, at which time the (large) parking lot was almost half full. Lots of people all the way to Snow Lake, though once past the first lake access point, the crowds thinned out. Just a handful of people on the trail to Gem Lake, and none while I was there.

The trail was in great condition. No blow-downs, and just a few slightly muddy spots. The trail is quite rocky in parts, especially when crossing the (many) talus fields.

Fireweed appeared to be in full bloom, and quite a few other flowers could still be seen as well. Some blueberries were ripe, and most should be very soon. Few bugs on the trail. Heard lots of pikas (and even caught a glimpse of some).