After hiking the PCT from Snoqualmie to Stevens Pass a couple weeks ago, I created a loop that incorporated a few of my favorite spots plus some others I didn’t get to see, to return to a week later with a friend. We took five days, spending two nights at Peggy’s Pond and two nights at Waptus Lake. It was glorious, especially this time of year with the berry bushes turning all shades of red, yellow and orange. In some areas the berries were gone, but in others they’re perfectly ripe and ready for snacking! Temperatures were mild during the day and got pretty cold at night - time to pack your fall gear! The loop was quite doable for my friend who hadn’t been backpacking in four years. Here’s the day-by-day break down:
Day One: Started at Cathedral Pass trailhead, hiked up to the PCT at Cathedral Rock then over to Peggy’s Pond. The trail to Peggy’s Pond is indeed a little bit treacherous, but if you’re prepared and take your time, it’s just fine. At one point there is a fork in the trail; the left is a longer and less strenuous route. That’s the one we took and it worked well. Since it was windy, we decided to pitch our tent in a more sheltered spot by a “puddle” near Peggy’s Pond, which turned out to have two “balconies” with great views of Deep Lake and its surrounding peaks.
Day Two: Day hiked to Circle Lake. This requires some use of a GPS to make sure you’re on the right trail, as there are many different paths winding up and around the surrounding hillsides. Also a little bit treacherous but so worth it, as Circle Lake is this incredible color of blue I’ve never seen in a lake before, and feels super secluded and otherworldly. We took a quick dip in the frigid waters and explored a bit of Spinola Creek as it exits Circle and heads down to Deep Lake. A marmot snacked on the bushes nearby us for quite some time. This is a very exposed hike, so sunscreen and wind protection is highly recommended.
Day Three: Hiked back to the PCT, down to Deep Lake, and then to Waptus Lake. A couple miles of this trail has a lot of fallen trees to manage, making travel a bit slower. We found the most perfect campsite near a beach on the east side of Waptus. This whole area is like car camping, with dozens of sites all crammed together. But there were only about three groups camped out in the whole area midweek, so it still felt private. We also discovered there is a toilet in this area - the sign is hard to see, but it’s on one of the trails heading into the camping zone, and there’s an arrow made out of rocks on the ground in the path. Being right near the lake is great for catching all the different moods of Waptus and Bear’s Breast mountain as the light changes throughout the day, however it was more windy there than sites inland.
Day Four: We woke up to magic - a rainbow over Waptus Lake as the clouds started to clear. My friend and I were in different moods today, so we split up. She wandered around Waptus and discovered a gorgeous campsite on a small peninsula on the northwest end of the lake. I hiked up to Spade Lake, which is yet another stunning, otherworldly spot. The hike is super intense, gaining 2300 feet in about three miles, so give yourself time to get up there. And also leave time to explore once you’re at the lake - it’s quite large, with waves of granite, trails winding between them, and views every which way. It was fun to be near the “head” of Bear’s Breast mountain after seeing it from down at Waptus. There were a number of camping spots, but the idea of carrying a heavy pack up there seems daunting.
Day Five: We started east on the Waptus River trail - the foot bridge is out and the Waptus River crossing does require removing shoes for the ford, though the water is quite calm. Then we took a left onto Trail Creek trail, which took us all the way back to Cathedral Pass trail and then down to the Cathedral Pass trailhead, where we started. Trail Creek trail had some fallen trees to hop over and walk around, but otherwise it’s in great shape, and entirely in the shade of the forest. There were some nice views of Waptus Lake and the peaks beyond it, and we didn’t see anyone the entire time we were on that trail.
A perfect loop for five days of exploring some of the most beautiful spots in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness!
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