Did a 3 day 2 night backpacking trip of the White-Pass Pilot Ridge Loop. We were initially concerned about the snow conditions so we called the Darrington Ranger station and they said there would be some snow but there weren't very sure of the conditions past White Pass (which were clear). Based on previous years reports, we decided to just send it and find out knowing we could turn around at any point.
Note: I read the previous reviews on the snow from this year and we must have been on different trails. At no point was the snow scary or unmanageable. The snow was very soft and there were no steep or scary portions. There were no "extensive snow fields", there were some long stretches yes and hiking through the snow is tiring, but it was probably a maximum of 2 miles combined of snow hiking out of nearly 30 miles. The trail through the snow is clear and you can often see the dirt path at the end of the snow field to connect to.
We opt'd to hike clockwise (the more popular route) as we were uncertain about the Blue Lake conditions. After hiking it now, we would do clockwise again. While the descent off Pilot ridge is steep, the steps are large and the trail is not very maintained so going up would be more difficult. Also, having the lake on our last day was magical.
Day 1: Trailhead to White Pass Camp
First 6 miles are as WTA started, steady climb up along the river. We stopped at the Mackinaw camp for lunch and debated getting water before the hike up. We did not fill up water here, but I highly recommend you do. The hike up is steady exposed and hot. There was one water spring at about 4400' and another at 5600' but those will dry up quickly as the snow melts. The hike up is a steady climb of 25 switchbacks - there was one short snow crossing that had post holing but we went around - it will be melted in a few days. Camping at White Pass was amazing. Spectacular views all around, great sites (at least 8 sites that I saw), plenty of water, and amazing views of the stars at night. Most hikers going up to Glacier peak continued to Glacier Gap to camp so camp was not very crowded. Throughout the hike we saw Marmots, heard lots and lots of grouse, and saw some chipmunks. Lots of wild flowers blooming. The camp is covered in Hover flies - they don't bite or sting but they surround you until the sun goes down. After that, there's maybe a 30 minute period of mosquitos that the Thermacell kept at bay. Bugs were annoying but manageable. Note that every time you stop, you get surrounded by these Hover flies.
Roughly 5.5 hours car to camp with lunch.
Day 2: White Pass to Blue Lake
The next morning we hiked up to White Mountain which I highly recommend. The hike is steep and round trip it took us 1.5 hours without packs but the views are amazing and you are super close to Glacier Peak. We continued across the northern faces of the mountains which had occasional snow fields. All very doable with just hiking boots. The snow was soft, the foot path was clear, and none of the sections were steep or had treacherous endings. Once you cross over the ridge to Kodak peak, the snow is less frequent as you're on the south facing side of Kodak peak. From Kodak peak to Dishpan gap are a few snow fields but all short and doable. Remember, the trail 180s (hairpins) at dishpan gap, do not follow the path straight, turn around and go upslope to find the trail. We continued on to the Blue Lake high trail. For your own sanity, take the high trail. The 4 miles loop around is longer and looked to have more snow than the high trail. The majority of the high trail is on the south facing side and is completely snow free. It's steep but there were no sketchy sections. Only after you descend to Blue Lake do you encounter some snow. Descending to Blue Lake was relatively straight forward with caution taken at the small snow sections. Once we got close to the lake, there was a large snow field we could butt slide the way down which was very fun. Upper Blue lake is still >50% snow covered but melting fast. At the outlet there's a small spot of water to jump in (it's frigid but with the heat, it was great) with a nice area to sit and relax. Lower Blue Lake was completely melted but we didn't venture down there. We saw plenty of fish jumping in Blue Lake but were not able to catch any. I figure once it's melted, the fish will certainly be catchable. Had a great campsite, but the same Hover flies and mosquitos from White Pass must have followed us to Blue Lake because they were everywhere. Wish we knew we could have a fire as that would have kept them at bay.
Note that yes there was snow on the trail but at no point was it not passable or sketchy. No mountaineering experience is required if you're comfortable walking on snow nor do you need spikes. The snow is very very soft and melting quickly.
Roughly 7 hours White Pass to Blue Lake with White Mtn side quest and lunch
Day 3: Blue Lake to Trailhead
There is a steady climb immediately out of Blue Lake until you meat the junction to Johnson Mountain. We took the path up to Johnson Mtn and I highly recommend it. It's much easier than White Mountain with similar views. Route was completely snow free (there was one 10' section) and took us 40 minutes round trip. Rest of the trail is a constant up and down across a hand full of short snow fields. Note there is no reliable water until you begin the descent down to the river, make sure you're full on water at Blue Lake. Occasional post holing or sliding occurred but you can quickly tell where to go around. Great views throughout the hike before descending towards the river. We stopped for lunch at a great vantage point of Glacier Peak roughly 2 miles before the steep descent down to the river. Once the trail cuts north down towards the river I have one heads up. You meet a patch of snow that has many boot paths that quickly lead you to a creek gully - do not follow the boot paths down the creek. Turn back and find the trail which is to your left (if you're heading downhill). If you see a deer carcass, you've gone too far and should turn around. We followed the boot path which was certainly off trail and had to ascend steep slopes and bushwhack to find the trial - do not recommend. Use the Gaia GPS app if you need a good route finding app. After that, smooth sailing down 29 switchbacks in a relatively unmaintained but event trail. River crossing was fine with water flowing quickly but still well below the log.
Roughly 6.5 hours Blue Lake to Trailhead with Johnson Mtn side quest and lunch.
Overall a spectacular hike that our group are glad we did. Absolutely breathtaking views throughout the hike, lots of wildlife, beautiful flowers, and relatively secluded of a trail. We ran into very few hikers once we got past White Pass. Note the parking lot was PACKED with parties ascending Glacier Peak. If you're looking for a delicious place to eat after your hike: check out the Burger Barn in Darrington - delicious milk shakes, burgers and fries :).
Road to the TH is filled with potholes that are mostly avoidable. We saw one party with a flat tire so be careful on how fast you take some of those dips. Not the best road I've driven on but far far from the worst (in a Honda CRV).
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