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Trip Report

Sloan Peak — Thursday, Jul. 4, 2024

North Cascades > Mountain Loop Highway
Start of scramble route

Sloan Peak via Bedal Creek. 

Approach Road was rough. High clearance vehicles only. RIP your paint job. I spent an entire day after the trip buffing out scratches. Also brought a saw and cut down a log blocking the way. 

Bedal creek trail 705 is overgrown and brushy. 

The SAR route from Bedal creek to Sloan/Bedal saddle was well flagged and a nice climber’s path in open timber cuts right up. No water on ascent until tarn at saddle. 

Tarn still frozen/thawing. 

Sloan glacier in good condition. Some crevasses just beginning near top or south side.  Remnants of huge rockfall still litter the glacier down the center.  Soft snow on glacier.  Stayed right to ascend, then cut under first rock band and then diagonal direct to corner/beginning of scramble route. 

Scramble route was still covered in snow. My partner had the courage and skills to try it, but it was beyond my comfort level. Steep unprotected snow above cliffs. 

Tarn at saddle
Sunrise over Glacier peak
Sloan glacier
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