I might not be able to hike for a few months, so my partner and I wanted a hike worthy of my swan song and of Labor Day Weekend. So even though I visited this incredible loop last year, my partner didn't come, so here goes round two!
Road conditions through the Mountain Loop Highway and FR 49 are actually pretty darn chill. I'm unsure what the fuss is about — I remembered it being much rougher in years past, but this visit the road was relatively smooth. The trailhead was about 85% full when we arrived around 8:30 on Saturday. It was much more full Sunday afternoon, and cars were parked about a quarter mile down the forest road. It looked like tons of folks were preparing to climb Glacier Peak. The bathroom was clean and well stocked both times.
Think of this trail as split into thirds. One third to ascend, one third in the subalpine along the crest, and one third to descend. We opted to walk up Pilot Ridge this time, going counter clockwise. Be warned: for the average hiker, this section is steep. Like, for real, a butt-kicker. There are also a few blowdowns, but nothing too difficult. The incline tapers off to a comfortable climb once the trees thin out a bit.
Blue Lake was busy when we arrived around 2 p.m. It seemed like the entire hike up, other parties were trying to rush up the trail to secure a spot. Unfortunately, most spots already looked to be taken when we arrived. There were a few whiny/barking dogs, as well as a very loud party throwing rocks in the lake. A shame — it's a stunning area, and the name holds true: the water is like sapphire! We also replenished water here.
The climb up the pass from Blue Lake offers incredible 360 views of the surrounding peaks and valleys. Descending counter clockwise is a bit steeper/more eroded than climbing up from the lake, so treat lightly.
Ironically, traffic thinned-out considerably when we joined the PCT. Back when I thru hiked the PCT in 2016, I thought the trail had some challenging climbs. These days, I appreciate it for what it is: a well-groomed, well-graded track that allows you to crank up hills with only reasonable discomfort.
We camped at Reflection Pond around 7:30 p.m. after roughly 18 miles and 6,700 feet of gain. There was one tent when we arrived (with a small, barky dog -_-) and two PCT thru hikers arrived around sundown, somewhat oblivious of respecting tentsite proximity (likely due to their 2,500 miles of walking with other thru hikers). The sites in the trees at Reflection Pond offer great sunset and sunrise colors from both directions.
We left camp around 6:50 the next morning and enjoyed a quiet trail for a couple of miles before arriving at the busy White Pass. There were too many parties to count here, but the tentsite area looked to be roomy. Saying goodbye to the subalpine views, we relished the long descent back to the North Fork Sauk — much less steep this way than the way we climbed up!
Back in the forest, we encountered some section hikers who flew to Washington to LASH (long #$$ section hike) the PCT. One wasn't feeling well, so we drove them to Darrington on the way out. Ready, Cogent and Bear Steps: if you're reading this, it was lovely to meet you all!
The river valleys are brimming with delicious fungi this time of year. We observed, photographed or collected up to 4 gourmet edible species along the way. And in case you didn't know: huckleberries are going BONKERS right now. More than this bear could eat, anyway.
We arrived back at the car around noon, dropped our new friends off, and enjoyed some Pagliacci Pizza at home. PS vegan friends: did you know Pagliacci now has vegan cheese? I am a happy hiker.
Distance: 29.44
Elevation: 7,651 feet
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