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Trip Report

Tomyhoi Peak — Sunday, Sep. 28, 2025

North Cascades > Mount Baker Area
See more photo here

The approach is straightforward and nearly impossible to lose. We followed the trail, with only one short class 3 step on the approach.

Before the false summit, both Gaia and AllTrails show the route incorrectly by keeping it on the ridge. In reality, you need to make a traverse below the ridge. We noticed some small rocks blocking on the main trail that indicate where you should drop down and start the traverse. At this time of year, no ice axe or traction was necessary because the route went entirely on rock and scree. The key is finding the correct gully to regain the ridge. I first climbed into a slab with pebbles on it that required a few class 5 moves, but the gully that Chutang is in turned out to be much easier. If the climbing feels harder than class 3, you are probably in the wrong place. I believe there are a few gullies can take you to the ridge.

From the false summit, you can see almost the entire line to the true summit. It looks difficultat first, but once on route it is obvious. After passing a piton, we made a short exposed traverse that felt manageable, followed by an easy scramble to the summit. We searched for the summit register but could not find it.
The traverse below the false summit ridge
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