White Pass to Chinook Pass, American Lake, Cougar Lakes & Three Lakes via Laughingwater Creek — Thursday, Jul. 28, 2016

South Cascades > White Pass/Cowlitz River Valley

We set up the trip as a one-way with car shuttle, going north to south. The hike down to Dewey was without snow or any other problems and the swim in the lake was the perfect antidote from the heat. We continued on to American Lake where we hoped to set up camp, but were disappointed to find only one appropriate (durable surface) campsite which would accommodate a max of 2 tents (we had 5). Although we were tired and the day was running out, we pressed on toward Cougar Lakes. We came across a family who had stopped at an old post with no markings and they insisted that it was the trail to Cougar. Our GPS indicated the same, so we headed up the trail, along with a couple of horses. The trail on the GT map looks to stay fairly level, staying on the contour and reaching the lake at the low point. But the trail we took had some steep gain, was poorly maintained (if at all) and climbed high on the shoulder of the ridge, descending a rocky trail to the lake. But at least we got there, and found good campsites as well. The next day, we took the adventurous trail through rock gardens that C. Romano mentions in his book, joining the PCT again. This section of trail goes in and out of Mt Rainier NP which forbids dogs, weapons and vehicles. OK, everyone, stash your dogs and guns! In no time, despite some serious attempts at lollygagging, a lost art among backpackers these days, we arrived at the Laughingwater Creek junction. A few of us continued on the PCT for some views to the Goat Rocks, Mt Adams, Mt St Helens and Crag Lake below, then headed back to Laughingwater. The camp at Three Lakes is very civilized, with a bear pole, toilet and a patrol cabin which was full of a trio of Rangers who were having a loud game of cards. Good to know their job is not all digging toilets and picking up trash. The remainder of the trail has seen a lot of clearing of trees, presumably by horsepackers, evidenced by the "apples" left on the trail. Yay for horse people!