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Trip Report

Vesper Peak — Saturday, Aug. 13, 2016

North Cascades > Mountain Loop Highway
Lunch spot on the summit (Sperry Peak, with Glacier in the background)
First, about the road... When you turn onto FR 4065, there'll be a sign that says "Road Closed - 1.2 miles". While there is a significant washout around the 1 mile mark, and another deep trench at 1.2 miles, most low-clearance vehicles can make it to the trailhead...and it's certainly no issue for an SUV/truck. Now, onto the trail... For trekkers who have never climbed Vesper, or hiked up to the lake, it's best to describe this hike in sections. Before that though, I'll offer a warning...this hike is tough...and when the sun is out, Wirtz Basin and the talus field above Headlee Pass are brutal, hot climbs over loose rock, with sections of very-steep trail (so bring lots of water!). We saw a lot of clueless, disoriented people in Wirtz Basin that weren't even carrying a pack or water. Leaving the parking lot, you'll enter dense forest, with easy hiking for the first section of the hike. There is a large blowdown about .2 miles in, and when you skirt the blockage on the right, the trail will split...one trail up, and one down. Don't go down. Hike back up to the trail, and after more easy walking and a few creek crossings, you'll come to the South Fork of the Stillaguamish River. Be sure to cross here! DO NOT KEEP HIKING ON THE SAME SIDE OF THE RIVER! (If you do, you'll end up backtracking or getting lost). Once you've rock-hopped across the river, you'll hike up a dense, bushy-and-buggy hillside, until entering a small grove of firs...from which you'll emerge into Wirtz Basin. Wirtz Basin is scenic overload, but it's also physically taxing. You'll hike over flat, rocky terrain, heading straight towards the headwall of Headlee Pass, and about halfway through the Basin, you'll really start climbing. Eventually, there's no dirt to be found...and you're just climbing over loose talus. Just follow the cairns, and keep heading towards the headwall (don't deviate and climb any of the chutes on the right...they go nowhere, and you'll expend precious energy). Once at the base of the headwall, catch your breath, look back and admire the elevation you've just gained, and then brace yourself for the climb ahead. Taking a sharp right, you'll ascend a narrow (and I mean narrow) chute up to the pass. I've nicknamed this section, "the zig-zags from Hell". Watch for hikers ascending/descending above you, as there'll be a lot of rocks tumbling down. Once you've climbed the chute, you'll see a sign telling you you've reached Headlee Pass (eleveation 4600'). Those were likely two of the hardest miles you've ever hiked. Continue on from the pass, and you'll soon reach the talus field below the south flank of Sperry Peak. It's another arduous climb, so take your time, and watch your footing. Once through the talus, you'll reach the outlet of Vesper Lake. If you're stopping here and making for the lake, don't cross the outlet creek. If you're continuing on to Vesper Peak, cross the creek at it's narrowest point, and immediately began climbing again. After some more uphill...first through a pleasant meadow, and then steeply through a mini-forest of small firs...you'll break out onto the smooth, angled east face of Vesper Peak. From here, it's a crapshoot. You can try and follow the cairns...or just make your way up...but following the creek/snow run off in the center is the best way to attack the summit. Snow lingers late here, so try to stay off the snowfields. We witnessed a pretty big snow/rock slide today that luckily stayed to the south. Once at the summit, the views are epic. Glacier, Baker, Pugh, Dickerman, Sperry, Morningstar, Del Campo, Rainier, Pugh...and even Stuart if you look closely enough...all laid out in front of you, and emerald-green Copper Lake lies directly below. There's a ton of hair-raising exposure on the north side, so tread wisely. Soak in the views, and prepare yourself for the ankle-bruising, knee-rattling descent back to your car. Time- 1:45 to the TH from Bellevue 2:30 from TH to Vesper's outlet creek 0:45 to the summit (with lots of breaks) ~0:20 spent jumping off rocks into the outlet creek :)
Copper Lake, guarded by Big Four (right), and Little Chief (left). Baker in the background
Vesper Lake outlet (our swimming spot)
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