Vesper Peak — Saturday, Jul. 24, 1999

North Cascades > Mountain Loop Highway

We started out at 11 am (way too late). Started out on the trail. Got to the headwaters of the Stillaguamish and the bridge or log was washed out. We had seen some people turn back because of this. Instead we crossed it by traversing some smaller in-the-water logs... kinda scary... Got across. A big log down the center where you could stop and take pictures. The trail up to the snow fields was steep and switchbacky, but no problems encountered. One section on it, you had to be careful where you stepped because the trail could slip out below you. The snow field was ok, about 8 feet of snow.. hidden crevasses (holes) if you got too near the edge or the trees. Got up to about the center of the cirque, rested at a huge rock that had slid down the hill. Then began to go up about a 45 degree chute. Went up the wrong chute. We named it ""Smedley Pass"" for fun. Got to the top of the chute and there we could see Vesper, 4:30 pm. Lots of snow on Vesper. Went and found actual Headlee pass, one chute to the south. Ended up going down. Pretty steep right at top. On both chutes, we used equipment -- ice axe, ropes, harness, etc. Know the self-arrest for going down, could turn hairy. Got back to the car at 9 pm.