Left the trailhead just before 11 am. Trail has just a dusting of snow the last 1/4 mile to Phelps Basin. Day was cold and cloudy. Temperatures must have been in the low 30's with a very cold wind and occassional light snow flurries. Meadow colors are past peak, but golden larches demarcated a line between the snow covered rock and the bare rock high above us. Was surprised to see how much snow on the peaks there was. Made use of our trekking poles on the many stream crossings. Back to the cars around 5pm.

Duane and I both had this area of the Glacier Peak Wilderness on our "to do" lists. So we chose a loop route and waited for the weather to cooperate.

Our intent was to start at the Phelps Creek trailhead, hike through Spider Meadow, over Spider Gap, down past the Lyman Lakes, west over Cloudy Pass to the Pacific Crest Trail, then south over Buck Creek Pass, following the Buck Creek Trail all the way to Trinity and the Phelps Creek Campground, concluding with a 3 mile road walk back to the Phelps Creek trailhead. We allowed five days, with several optional side trips: the base of Lyman Glacier, the west side of Lyman Lake, Image Lake, Middle Ridge, and Flower Dome.

Due to our personal schedules and the weather, our first day on the trail coincided with the opening day of deer hunting season. We left the trailhead shortly after a young man carrying a rifle on his pack.

At 3.4 miles is a junction to a trail heading up Leroy Creek. A paper sign was posted on a tree a short distance on that trail. I inspected and found that it warned of a wildfire in the Leroy Creek basin. Unfortunately, the sign was not dated.

We continued on another 1.5 to 2 miles to where Spider Meadow opened up. There were numerous campsites here, mostly occupied by hunters. We chatted briefly, then continued on toward our intended camp at Larch Knob, near the base of Spider Glacier.

At the end of the open meadow, the trail started climbing and we started looking for the trail junction that would lead us west up to Larch Knob. At a campsite along the left side of the trail, we saw a path leading west and took it. It broke out of forest in a jumble of rocks below a cliff, and became too faint to follow. This is NOT the trail to Larch Knob. Back on the main trail, we soon found a signed junction and the real side trail, which climbs steeply along a cliff face to Larch Knob, where there are a few gorgeous camps overlooking Spider Meadow.

We discussed our options for getting to Spider Gap. I had trekking poles but no ice axe. Duane had neither. We had read that the route over the Gap was doable without either, but we were exercising caution. We watched others traveling the glacier route, and by morning had decided to try that route.

Even though Spider Glacier was still partially shaded, it was not icy, and made for a nice ascent to Spider Gap. As the top is a small bowl, with Spider Gap straight ahead. The best route however, is to ascend the lower saddle to the right, then follow an obvious path that contours around to the Gap. (See photo.)

Through the Gap, the views opened up to the entire Lyman Lake basin, and beyond to Bonanza Peak. The north side of Spider Gap is loose rock. The trail soon divides, with one route heading north and maintaining elevation. We had read about the existence of a miner's trail and this appeared to be it. We dropped our packs and followed it a short distance with our cameras, to take advantage of the improved views.

Laden with our packs again, we dropped quickly through the rocks and gravel to a chute of ice. It was here that the trekking poles would come in handy. We were able to avoid the ice most of the way down the chute, taking care to avoid ice hidden beneath a slurry of rocks and mud. But at one point, we had to cross a 20-foot slope of ice. We each used a pole for insurance in making this traverse.

Later in the day, we heard from other hikers that the previous day a man had fallen on the ice and had to abort his trip to get stitches in his badly lacerated arm. Don't underestimate the danger of this section.

Once down in the basin, we spent a considerable amount of time exploring along the shore of the large lake and photographing ice caves at the base of Lyman Glacier. The respective sizes and shapes of the lakes in the basin looked nothing like those on my 2004 Green Trails map (Holden - #113). We had both seen photos of Lyman Lakes before our hike, but we couldn't match our memories to the reality. It was clear that this area had changed dramatically in recent years.

Our research had indicated that there was water within a half mile of Cloudy Pass, but we weren't sure where. We talked to some hikers headed the other direction and confirmed that Cloudy Pass had good camps, with water nearby. So we decided to camp there on night two. By the time we dropped from the upper basin to the north side of Lyman Lake, clouds had come in and a wind was creating a chill. While stopped for a snack, we opted to forego a side trip along the west side of the lake to Lyman Falls. Instead we continued up toward Cloudy Pass.

Approximately a half mile before Cloudy Pass, the trail opens up to a large meadow. The pass is visible in the distance. Before long, the trail passes by a creek that had a good amount of water flowing even in mid-September. We did not stop, and regretted it 15 minutes later.

There were nice camps at Cloudy Pass, but we had passed the only water source. It was only 3:30 in the afternoon, but we wanted to take a side trip to Image Lake the next day, and did not know of another camp site between Cloudy Pass and Trail 785.

Ultimately, we decided to take our chances and press on. It started sprinkling the moment we left Cloudy Pass, and we had second thoughts. But when the rain held off, we moved on. We took the Trail 1279 shortcut, with its pointless ups and downs, to a junction with the PCT south of Suiattle Pass. From there we continued to the junction with Trail 785 and the side trip to Image Lake, without seeing any place to camp.

We decided to continue on 785, and quickly came to an old miner's camp. Hikers coming from the other direction assured us that water was only an eighth of a mile west. The site was buggy, but we were tired and willing to tolerate it.

It rained overnight, and everything was damp in the morning. We lightened our packs and set out through wet bushes on our side trip to Image Lake. On the way there, the fog lifted and we got partial views of Glacier Peak. At Image Lake, two deer grazed lazily, unconcerned about our presence. We climbed above the lake. While Duane explored the ridge above, I feasted on blueberries, which were plentiful, plump, and deliciously sweet.

When we returned to camp, we decided to leave the buggy camp for (hopefully) a better one. We had met some hikers who had camped atop Middle Ridge, a one mile side trip to 6400' with good views. It was early afternoon, and the 6400' camp was 6.5 steep miles away, but we decided to go for it. We broke camp in record time and started walking.

We reconnected with the PCT and headed south, dropping down to cross Miner's Creek then starting up an increasingly steep slope. We were aware of the PCT detour from the 2003 flood damage, and were expecting to see a trail closure at the junction 2.8 miles south of Trail 785 junction. We saw no trail at all; the junction had effectively been erased.

We stopped for water along Trail 789, then continued steeply up to Middle Ridge at 6200 feet. Along the way, we feasted on the plump ripe blueberries that lined the trail, just to keep our energy levels up. A black bear on the slope of peak 6655 appeared to be doing the same.

Once on top of Middle Ridge, we turned east on an unmaintained trail. It was badly rutted at first, over a foot deep. It climbed up the ridge, then contoured around the south face, reaching a broad sloping meadow at 6400' in about a mile. We arrived near dusk to found one tent already there. We hastily set up our tent in the fading light.

In the morning we spoke to the other backpacker. She told us that water was available a few hundred yards away, to the northeast. Sure enough, there were at least two streams coming off the scenic slope of peak 8297. Not knowing this, we had brought enough and didn't bother to walk over there.

As we left 6400' camp, the meadow afforded good views of Glacier Peak, with only a few clouds around it.

As we left Middle Ridge heading south again, we finally saw a sign marking the PCT detour route. We dropped down to Small Creek, stopping for water, then climbed up past slopes of autumn colors to a junction with Trail 799 to Flower Dome. We dropped our packs and took the 0.6 mile side trip to Flower Dome. Being mid-September, there were no flowers, but the views to the north and east were nice. Partially obstructed views to Glacier Peak and the Suiattle River were also pretty impressive.

Back on the mail trail, it was a mere 0.3 mile to Buck Creek Pass, more slopes of blueberries providing autumn colors, and our last fantastic views of Glacier Peak. We left the pass at 2:15 p.m., leaving open the question of whether we would press on to the trailhead 9.6 miles away, or spend another evening on the trail.

From Buck Creek Pass, the downhill miles went quickly. We passed obvious avalanche damage in the first mile. Water was plentiful. We did not stop to see if the camp sites in this area were still usable.

Three miles ahead there was a 100-yard wide swath of downed trees. Trail crews had cleared the route through the avalanche, leaving just a very impressive sight.

We passed up a camp at the crossing of the Chiwawa River and continued to the junction with Trail 1550 (Massie Lake Trail). Finally, after 8.2 miles since Buck Creek Pass, we knew for sure where we were, and how much farther it was. That last 1.4 miles seemed like at least 2.

We arrived at the Phelps Creek Campground after 6:00 p.m., with darkness closing in. I left my pack with Duane and hiked the 3 miles to the car in just 36 minutes, capping off a long and exhausting day, and a very memorable loop hike.

Phelps Pass - Cloudy Pass - Suiattle Pass - Buck Creek Pass - Trinity Loop
3 days, bivvies high on Cloudy Pk and below Pass No Pass

WARNING:
HORSE HAZARD on PCT #789 N. of Middle ridge, below treeline. There is a hoof-sized hole 3' deep, on a slope, this one spot only, no warning. I suppose horses look out for such things, but this looks like a real leg-breaker to me. There were some other cavities around roots; I think subsurface water may have undermined the soil. I put a tall thin stick in it with a flag and ask other passersby to mark it more obviously or stick a log in it.

HUNTING SEASON:
High Hunt is Sept. 15-25 2009.
http://wdfw.wa.gov/wlm/game/seasons.htm
After what happened last year, I got a day-glo hunter-orange pile cap and some other red/orange clothing. A hunter I met remarked that he appreciated it. I recommend this; it's not just safety but a courtesy to hunters and it reminds you to think about hunting season (bear season starts Aug 1, I think). I also like to flag the dog with fluorescent survey tape, cut into festive ribbons. My dogs look like foxes in deep sedge. Be aware that hunters are setting up camps a couple days before High Buck season opens. I spoke several; they really seemed to have an intimate knowledge of the area.

PCT SUIATTLE RIVER CROSSING:
Spoke two PCT parties who crossed Suiattle River. No bridge, log crossing. No info on how it would be at high water. Said trail was OK north of Red Pass, some blowdown.

WATER:
The land looks very dry but water was not an issue, streams flowing everywhere. I treated no water and I'll post a followup if I get sick. I try to get snowmelt as high as possible.

NO FIRES AT UPPER LYMAN LAKES:
There's a routered sign on the bridge at Lyman Lake, and I wonder how anybody can get as far as Upper Lyman Lake without learning that fires at 6000' are destructive, but a large party of greenhorns was gathering what little wood was there, including a big log, for a toy fire that I could see far into the night from Cloudy Peak. I wonder how many years their fire pit will be there?
Please don't do this. A fire is the biggest impact you can make/leave, and once you make a fire, it's like being indoors. Yeah, it's a cool place, but don't expect the snout of a glacier to be warm. If you must make a fire, you can burn it to ash and destroy most traces. End of rant. Sorry.

TRAIL CONDITIONS:
Ripe blueberries are an obstacle to progress.

MEMO:
I asked a horseman; he said it's best to move to the downslope side when you meet horses on a slope, just talk to them so they know you're there. My dog doesn't bark but I'd be concerned about spooking a horse on a slope.

NOTE:
I hate this new website and can't get it to work. This route DOES NOT GO OVER PASS NO PASS. I can't get that out of the trails list.
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DAY 1 Sat 9/12
4:15 LV Seattle
7:30 hiking up Phelps Ck Rd, was offered a ride immediately (thanks Dilleys).
      Ice axe unnecessary on what's left of Spider Glacier. Soft snow, warm sunny day.
      4-star campsite at snout of Spider Glacier overlooking Phelps Basin.
3:30 LV Phelps Pass
      Carried water from Lyman Lake to Cloudy Pass, but plenty good water flowing from meadows on S side of Cloudy Pk.
      Bivvied high on SW rib of Cloudy, 1-person sand patch, no tent sites above pass. 5-star campsite at Cloudy Pass. Magnificent view from here; if you go to Cloudy Pass, make time to gently stroll high onto Cloudy Pk.

Day 2 Sun 9/13
      Ascended Cloudy Pk. Follow ridge as high as possible, then onto ledges on Rt (E). Some Class 3 scrambling; final summit block is Class 3-4, not corgi-friendly, Gwynnie's pride was hurt.
11:00 LV Cloudy bivouac.
12:40 LV Suiattle Pass.
2:15 LV Miners' Ck.
      HORSES, watch for hoof hole below treeline!
4:00 Middle Ridge. My old map shows Middle Ridge Tr going WNW down the ridge, and it looked like a trail went higher as well.
5:55 Buck Creek Pass.
      Spoke hunters who said Massie Lk High Route has serious avalanche debris, big logpiles, near its SE end. Massive avalanches went all the way to the valley bottom and piles massive logs on Buck Creek Trail. You'll be impressed by the avalanches and the trail crews.
      Bivvied in basin below Pass No Pass near several couple hunter parties setting-up for High Hunt, which opened Tuesday 9/15/09, after I'd be gone. Glad I'd bought the flashy day-glo hat. Water and snow still in the basin.

Day 3 Mon. 9/14
Stars went out one by one. Awoke in fog.
10:15 Started SW scramble route on Fortress in whiteout, hesitant and slow. In the fog, I chose the worst possible way. Upper part would be much more pleasant in early season with more snow; it's rocky, loose, chossy in places. No place for a dog but there were no other climbers present. Rockfall is a real issue. We got 100' above the overcast, joy. Everything to the west a sea of clouds. Magnificent summit view.
1:50 Fortress summit.
2:20 Left summit.
4:50 Pass No Pass sheep trails up Helmet Butte, fine bivvy site below pass, don't mess it up.
5:35 LV Pas No Pass basin
6:00 on Buck Ck Trail
      Massive avalanche logpiles opposite Mt. Berge, impassable but for the trail crews.
9:45 Trinity
Just before Trinity, in a 5' wide 5" deep stream, two salmon were hanging in the current. I could've caught them bare-handed, but they'd come a long way.

Car keys were just where I'd left them, in the ignition of my unlocked car.

Just walking the dog.

Our first backpacking trip of the summer was to Spider Meadow in June, but we were kept from the glacier because of heavy snow cover on the trail. We decided that this past Monday would be a fine time to give it a second shot.

We arrived at the trailhead and our mouths hung open. It wasn’t even the weekend, and there were at least 35 cars parked haphazardly along the road, stretching about a quarter mile from the trail registry kiosk. Brushing off that initial shock, we gathered our things up and were on our way.

Phelps Creek Trail is as easy as they come: wide and flat. It seemed even more freeway-ish considering the 30 or so people we passed that were headed back to the lot. All the stream crossings are easily manageable, probably even if you were wearing nothing but tennis shoes. Beware of the deer flies, if you stand around for long enough they will start biting you! We hit the Meadow after about two hours, in the heat of the day. To our surprise, we didn’t see a single tent set up all the way there.

We took a minute to rest in the meadow and continued to the other side, where the real hike actually starts. At the Y junction with the Phelps Creek Basin/Spider Glacier trails, we headed left up the steep path to the knoll. There are one or two areas on the way up that final stretch that are a bit nervous-making, so be sure to keep your feet and you’ll be alright.

When we made it to the foot of Spider Glacier (which actually is no longer a glacier, unfortunately), we were pretty surprised by what we saw. After having seen nobody camped in the meadow, every established campsite we came across was already taken. There were probably 12 tents, one pitched around every corner. I lobbied for a short trip up the glacier to the higher sites, but the girls were tired, so we ended up shoe-horning our way onto a little ridge overlooking the snow.

The next day dawned bright and early, to the whir of a helicopter engine. This annoying little gnat buzzed back and for the above our heads for the better part of the day, making probably 20 trips to and from god-knows-where. Also, we had flyovers by two different military jets, so be prepared for that if you make the trip. We had breakfast and made our way up the snowfield to Spider Gap, and had a look around at the top, taking a few pictures of Lyman Glacier. This glacier is scheduled to suffer the same fate as Spider did within the coming years, decaying into nothing but a snowfield before it melts entirely. Tragic. We made our way down the ridge opposite Chiwawa Mountain and back to camp, passing several viable camp sites.

Our stay at Spider snowfield brought on a serious mix of emotions: the natural high you get from the seeing the majesty of nature in its most raw form, the melancholy you feel looking at the last sad remnants of what used to be a mighty glacier, knowing that Lyman will inevitably follow, and the frustration of having the serene silence of nature fractured by constant buzzing of motors.