Photo by Whitebark.

A diversity of landscape and ecosystems are found along this canyon trek. Starting high and hiking downhill, the route begins in open, Douglas fir forest and ends in sagebrush and scrub grass desert canyons.

Elk roam the upper woods, and bighorn sheep prowl the steep canyon walls around the pounding waterfall. Visit in early spring to enjoy the best wildlife viewing (beasts of all sizes stick to this canyon while the snows still fill the high country). Spring also means the waterfall is running full with snowmelt water. The area in and around the falls is very icy in winter.

From the parking area, start down the Umtanum Falls Trail, noting that the first 0.5 mile no longer rolls between sections of private property. The Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife purchased this land in 2006, and it is now part of the state-owned L. T. Murray State Wildlife Recreation Area lands. For the next 0.5 mile, you'll pass through the transition zone between the lowland forest and the high desert. At times the canyon narrows and the north wall looms higher. With more shade and less scorching sun in the summer, trees thrive. Douglas firs tower high on the shaded slopes, while the canyon floor sports a dense forest of pine and fir. As you near the 1-mile mark, the canyon walls mellow, opening the entire chasm to the full glare of sun day in and day out. The result is dramatic: Gone are the towering firs and pines, and instead the canyon is filled with fragrant sagebrush groves.

At just over 1 mile, the stunning punchbowl surrounding Umtanum Falls opens before you. The creek falls about 40 feet into an oval-shaped basalt bowl. Throughout winter and spring, ice plasters the black rock alongside the falls as the water cascades into the bowl and then out a narrow canyon. In this water-rich basin, ponderosa pines thrive.

Hikers may continue down the creek valley for several miles along the "official" trail (brushy scramble in places), though we recommend exploring. Rock-hop across the creek well above the falls, where you'll find an easily scrambled slope to the top of the south wall of the canyon. Follow the canyon rim to view amazing rock formations: myriad volcanic basalt forms that boggle the mind. Later in spring, the ridge top also sports the first color of the local wildflower show. Buckwheat and balsamroot are especially abundant.

For a good daylong outing, follow the south canyon rim about 3 miles until it is broken by a broad side canyon, then turn back and head home.