This trail is indeed difficult but you won't find a more scenic hike. This trail was carved out of cliff faces and mountaintops. The route is long, sun-baked, and incredibly scenic, while the trail itself is rough, steep and very exposed. One section on the flank of Whittier was blasted from a sheer rock face-anyone with acrophobia should be prepared for a case of the jitters, as the trail on this section features a sheer drop. Indeed, given the rough-hewn nature of much of the Mount Whittier section of the route, we join the national monument officials in recommending that only experienced hikers comfortable on scramble routes attempt this trail. Those who don't want to deal with the vertigo-inducing exposure and rock-strewn trail can still enjoy this route-just make it an out-and-back trek on the northern (lakes region) section of the loop component, skipping Whittier's rugged slope altogether.

From the trailhead, hike west along the Boundary Trail, climbing steadily through blown-down forests as the trail angles southwest to a ridge crest (4600 feet). The way then turns northward, following the ridgeline to reach Norway Pass (4500 feet) at 2.2 miles. From the pass, enjoy great views down the ash-laden valley to Spirit Lake; note the huge cluster of logs that cover the lake surface, the remains of the once great forest that surrounded the beautiful lake.

Continue north 1 mile from Norway to Bear Pass (5000 feet) and the start of the loop section. For best views, stay right to do the lakes portion of the loop first. The trail rolls north, weaving through acres of timber stacked like toothpicks in a box. In the next 5 miles, you'll pass several small lakes, set in the blast-scoured landscape like fine gems in a tarnished ring. You'll skirt the eastern edge of Grizzly Lake, travel between Twin Lakes and Boot Lake, and swing around the southern shore of Panhandle Lake to reach the north side of Shovel Lake.

At 8 miles, the trail splits. Stay left to climb the Mount Whittier Trail southeast, and in just a mile you'll be on the summit ridge, oohing and ahhing over the scenery laid before you. To the south resides the still-steaming mass of Mount St. Helens--you can peer directly into the breach of the northeastern face of the once-great mountain to see the building lava dome in the crater. Between you and the crater stand Coldwater Peak and The Dome. To the north are the many pretty lakes you just hiked past, and far to the east stands Mount Adams.

Continue along the summit ridge another mile to a trail junction at 5600 feet on the flank of Mount Margaret. Turn left to traverse along a mile-long ridge back to Bear Pass, 11 miles from the start. Turn right and hike the 3.2 miles back to the trailhead.