The coulees of central Washington are box-shaped valleys cut into basalt bedrock by a sequence of catastrophic ice-age floods. The Nature Conservancy maintains a 3,600 acre preserve at the northern end of Moses Coulee. The preserve comprises intact shrub steppe habitat, two ephemeral streams, and several seasonal waterfalls. Vertical basalt cliffs make up the sides of the coulee, and sagebrush and bunchgrass carpet the floor.
Shrub-steppe may look tough, but the fragile soil crust is easily damaged, so the Nature Conservancy asks hikers to stay on trails when you visit the area. Here we describe a short trail to Dutch Henry Falls, a side track that follows a creek bed, and a separate trail that follows an old dirt road.
Dutch Henry Falls is a short jaunt from the north trailhead to a large cleft in the basalt cliff on the northwest side of the coulee. In the spring you’ll see bitterroot and lupine in bloom. The seasonal waterfall creates a small pool surrounded by greenery. Doves, swallows, and bats make their home here.
About halfway between the waterfall and the trailhead you can see faint wheel tracks heading west to Dutch Henry Draw, a creek bed that is dry most of the year. You can walk alongside (or within) the draw, which merges with another ephemeral stream, McCarteney Creek. Erosional features along these creek beds make it evident that water periodically runs fast and high. When they are dry, you can continue to follow the bed of McCarteney Creek about 5 miles.
Alternatively, drive to the south trailhead and follow the old dirt road northeast, parallel to the eastern wall of the coulee. The basalt takes on fantastical shapes in this stretch, and in the spring the slopes are bright with wildflowers.
Bring plenty of water and sun protection, and watch for rattlesnakes.
Vault toilets and dispersed camping are available at Washington Fish & Wildlife’s Jameson Lake public access area a few miles north of the Moses Coulee Preserve. A Discover Pass is required.