December 29, 2007

--Hike Statistics--

Round-Trip Hiking Distance: 1.5 miles

Elevation Gain: 200 feet

High Point: 250 feet

Weather at Trailhead: light snow and rain

Weather at Cape Flattery: low clouds, light rain and breezy

**Makah recreation pass required**

--Driving Directions--

From Forks follow US Highway 101 north (paved) for 12.3 miles to Sappho. Turn left onto Highway 113 (paved) for 10.0 miles to the intersection with Highway 112. Continue straight (west) on Highway 112 (paved). Follow Highway 112 for 26.9 miles to the Makah Nation of Neah Bay. Once in town, keep an eye out for Washburn's General Store on the left side of the road. You can buy a required recreation pass from the cashier. From Washburn's, continue west on Bayview Avenue (paved) for 1.0 mile to Fort Street. Stay to the left onto Fort Street (paved) and follow it for 0.1 mile to 3rd Street. Turn right on 3rd Street (paved) and follow it 0.1 mile to Cape Flattery Road. Turn left onto Cape Flattery Road (paved) and follow it to the road's end at 7.6 miles. There are plenty of parking spaces available and a newer looking privy.

--The Experience--

After my long drive from Forks, I was anxious to step boot onto Makah land and make tread to the northwestern-most point of the contiguous United States. There were a couple of cars present in the parking lot on my arrival. Upon shutting off the tired diesel engine and stepping out of the truck I realized that comfort would be a top priority on this hike. There was a chilly wind flowing from the way I had just driven and the rain/snow mix made it difficult to prepare my gear. I found myself sitting in the passenger seat of the truck donning my boots and my Gore-Tex raingear.

Tromping across the parking area, I easily located the trailhead. An old wooden sign nailed high in a sapling near the back of the parking lot pointed in the direction of the Cape Flattery Trail. As if the sign wasn’t enough, there was another boarded sign just below reading ‘Cape Trail—Most N.W. Point” with an arrow pointing towards the trailhead. Giving the large informational kiosk a good once-over a-priori, I was quickly on my way.

The air was damp and the relentless dripping of the rain had completely saturated the trail and all facets of flora alongside. The forest was thick and dark but the trail was wide enough for a party of three or four as it descended from the plateau of the parking lot. Locals had cut circular stepping plates from the trunks of trees which they placed linearly through the muddy portions of the trail, of which there was many. Through the marshier areas were erected raised plank boardwalks paralleled by brushy salal and grass. Photography was difficult in this environment due to the harsh weather conditions and poor lighting.

Large Sitka Spruce adorned with lichen and moss towered overhead as I slowly continued my descent along the narrowing path. I soon reached the first promontory, an observation platform harnessed to the hillside accessed via a short side trail to the left. I stood in awe as I watched and listened to the powerful waves slam into the cliff-like coast of Cape Flattery. Tiny, steeply sided islands dotted the coast and rounded boulders protruded above the waves. The ground beneath my feet vibrated with each powerful blast of water and I was amazed that the tract of land I clung to had not yet been claimed by the sea.

I retraced my steps and was soon back on the main path. I passed a couple who was headed back the way I had come. I was soon within reach of the second platform and upon arrival I bravely ventured out onto its terrace. The cliffs here were even higher, dropping steeply from their flattened tops before arching into the frothing waves below. White foam festooned the tide rips as water from the Pacific Ocean sloshed around the Cape into the Strait of Juan de Fuca.

I was eager to reach the trail’s terminus and made haste to snap as many photographs as I deemed fit. The final stretch of path moseyed out onto a fingerling of the Cape on whose left side protruded another observation deck. As par, I eagerly snapped some more photographs of the rugged northwest Washington coast before pulling myself up onto the final circular platform at the trail’s finale.

Many interpretive signs were attached to the thick wooden hand railing around the periphery of the deck describing the ancient customs of the Makah who made customary hunting trips to Tatoosh Island in the distance, the abundance of wildlife and the ocean’s ferocious siege on the Cape. The misty and blustery weather hindered any awe-inspiring views on this day but I still felt empowered just being there. Rocky Tatoosh Island housing a lone lighthouse sat remotely in the distance. The watery gap between the island and the rocky reach of land on which I stood was churning and rolling with the ocean swells and the kelp swayed two and fro with the ceaseless currents. Stunted trees grew on our country’s furthest reach and presented no visual blockade to the rolling waves straight down. I did not linger long as my hands were beginning to go numb from exposure to the elements and the vibrations of the Cape were somewhat frightening. I was soon on the second leg of my journey and made haste to follow my tracks 0.75 mile back to the trailhead.

Cape Flattery 9/21/2004

The Cape Flattery trail is unique, it travels to the Northwestern most point of the Washington mainland. At this spot you look out to the Pacific Ocean, the Straits of Juan de Fuca, Vancover island in Canada, and the Tatoosh island light house just one mile offshore. The cape is a rugged headland with cliffs, sea caves, sea stacks and lots of wild life.

It is one of the most magnificent spots on the Washington coast, certainly in my top 3. The trail is short and descends thru forest to the bluffs. The Makah tribe has improved the trail greatly with boardwalks and safe viewing platforms at the cliff edges. To get there you must first travel to Neah Bay on the Makah reservation. From there the route is well marked and is about a 15 minute drive to the trailhead.

When I was there an Indian maiden (student zoologist) identified sea, land, and air creatures for the visitors.

Robert Michelson