It's a tough trek up, over, and down a steep and rocky ridge to North Lake-a fair price to pay for the solitude you'll more than likely find. But if you prefer an easier adventure-one perfect for the kids and your dog-feel free to go no farther than Independence Lake. Either way, both lakes make fine destinations. Surrounded by a rugged topography cloaked in ancient forest, the setting is as wild as any along the Mountain Loop Highway, except for one noticeable difference. North and Independence lack the crowds that inundate nearby backcountry lakes.

The way begins in an old clear-cut. After a series of short switchbacks, primeval forest is soon encountered. Beneath giant hemlocks, the trail commences on a level to gently descending course toward Independence Lake. However, while the grade is easy the way is rough. Plenty of exposed roots and rocks will slow you down. After 0.5 mile, cross a rocky streambed and begin a short climb to regain the 200 feet you lost. Independence Lake (elev. 3700 ft) greets you 0.25 mile farther.

The lake sits in a rugged little basin, flanked on the west by ancient trees and on the east by rocky slopes. It's a pleasing enough spot, but the wild country surrounding Independence Lake rings out to be explored. Continue onward along the western shore to the marshy and brushy north end of the lake.

Amid a myriad of social paths, locate the trail to North Lake taking off to the northeast. On narrow but defined tread, the trail steeply climbs-its direction at times baffling. Cross scree slopes streaked with wildflower regalia, and take time to admire a massive double-trunked Alaska yellow cedar, one of the largest this side of Ipsut Creek's record-holding specimen.

Continue clamoring on the rough and tumble ascent. Reenter old forest, drop a little to cross a small creek, then resume upward mobility. Pause for a moment at a small gap to take in views that include Devils Thumb. Then work your way through heather meadows, passing a small tarn. Just off to your right is a larger tarn. This picturesque body of water, often mistaken for North Lake by wishful hikers, is nevertheless worth exploring and is a good spot for those not inclined to continue the rough journey.

North Lake-bound trekkers must still climb another 200 feet to a narrow shoulder (elev. 4950 ft) on Independence Mountain. From here your objective lies 700 feet below in a basin of glacial-scoured ledges and fields of heather. Carefully make your way down the steep path, passing tarns, talus, and cascading creeks to the secluded lake (elev. 4150 ft). There's not much room to wander, but you shouldn't have to worry about sharing this spot with too many fellow hikers.

North Lake sits right dab in the middle of a 32,000-acre roadless area. Nearly pristine and supporting prime old-growth forest and wildlife habitat, this tract would make a nice addition to the adjacent Boulder River Wilderness.