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Copyright © Craig Romano/The Mountaineers Books Mount Muller
Roam for miles on a high ridge carpeted in a mosaic of brilliant wildflowers. Catch your breath not from climbing (although it's tough), but from watching a continuous reel of premiere showings starring glistening white Mount Olympus and deep-blue Lake Crescent. If that's not enough to slack your jaw, Mount Baker hovering over the Strait of Juan de Fuca will most certainly captivate you. Constructed in 1994, the Mount Muller Loop is one of the newest additions to our trail system and among the all-time supreme scenic high-country romps.
Back in 1975, Forest Service employee Molly Erickson was convinced that Mount Muller and Snider Ridge were the most beautiful places in the Forks Ranger District-and that someone should put a trail on them. Twenty years later, Erickson and a slew of her Forest Service compatriots did just that, designing and building over 20 miles of trail on the long northern ridge above the Sol Duc Valley. These dedicated Forest Service workers not only built an amazing trail that delivers one stunning view after another; they named features along the way and dedicated meadows to each other, making hiking the loop a whole lot of fun. The trail is shared by equestrians and mountain bikers, but no need to worry about crowds. Your main concern should be carrying enough water-most of the way is bone dry. Do the loop clockwise, tackling the steep climb early in the morning before the day heats up. Start in a dark damp glen housing Littleton Creek, your last sure water until Hutch Creek, 9 miles farther. The way starts off easy before reaching a series of switchbacks that climb 2000 feet in 2.5 miles. In early summer, twinflower lines the trail like rows of tiny street lights. As you climb you'll traverse acres of young forest interrupted by big charred stumps. After 3 long uphill miles, crest the ridge (elev. 3200 ft). Here at Jim's Junction, a trail leads left 3.5 miles to Kloshe Nanitch, one goes straight 0.5 mile to FR 3040, and another goes right 2.5 miles to Mount Muller. Head right on an up-and-down ridgeline march across miles of meadows, drinking in panoramic perspectives of the U-shaped Sol Duc Valley. After a short stroll through a stand of silver fir, come to a glorious viewpoint of the emerald wall, Aurora Ridge, and the massive snow and ice heap, Mount Olympus. Hikers not wishing to make the long loop may consider this point far enough. For those eating the whole enchilada, carry on. After climbing to 3400 feet in Millsap Meadow, the trail rapidly loses 400 feet, bottoming out in Thomas Gap before steeply regaining lost ground. On an up-and-down course, pass through Millsap, Jasmine, Allison, and Markham Meadows. Marvel at their multitude of blossoming flowers: paintbrush, tiger lily, thistle, bleeding heart, vetch, star flower, hawkweed, daisy, bear grass, columbine, lupine, lace, strawberry, bunchberry, and queen's cup among them. At 5.5 miles a side trail leads left for 0.1 mile to the semiforested 3748-foot summit of Mount Muller. Bag it. Now proceed on the main trail to another side path, this one leading right 0.1 mile to Panorama Point, a series of outcrops in a sea of meadows. If you think the view can't possibly get better, wait until you see Lake Crescent sparkling below. Like sentinels, Pyramid Mountain and Mount Storm King guard the pristine waters of the fjordlike lake. After soaking up views and sunshine, continue up and down along the ridge crest, dashing behind ledges and undulating between forest and meadow. From Cahill's Overlook (at 7 miles), drop rapidly to Mosely Gap, a 2800-foot low point on the ridge. One last uphill struggle, and then begin a long descent back to the valley. Take a break to check out Fouts Rock House, two giant boulders rubbing shoulders at 8.5 miles. A mile beyond, cross Hutch Creek, a good spot for refilling depleted water bottles. The final 3 miles are mostly uneventful, traversing forest on a mostly level route. Not very exciting after what you've experienced, but a necessary price to pay for this satisfying journey. At 12.8 miles (13 if you went up Muller) Littleton Creek's soft babble welcomes you back to the trailhead.
Driving Directions:
From Port Angeles follow US 101 west for 32 miles to an electricity substation at milepost 216, 4.5 miles beyond Fairholm. Turn right on Forest Road 3071 (signed "Mount Muller- Recent Trip Reports
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Day hike
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Snow on trail
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Left around 9am, back by 1pm. Dog could not handle the post-holing once we reached the ridge, so we...
Left around 9am, back by 1pm. Dog could not handle the post-holing once we reached the ridge, so we turned around. Probably 4-5mi total.
Only saw one other hiker, no bikes or horses. Beautiful! Day hike
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Trail offers beautiful views and a great work-out. I mountain biked this trail today. As a mountain ...
Trail offers beautiful views and a great work-out. I mountain biked this trail today. As a mountain bike trail it is marginal. Most hills are too steep and loose to climb on the bike, so I walked many of the up hills. Switchbacks are often too tight to stay on bike as well. This trail is heavily used by horses and it shows. While you may see and smell many beautiful flowers in the early summer, but now your more likely to see, smell, and wear horse poop, it is literally every 15' on this trail. The tread is pretty loose and pot-holed due to heavy horse use as well.
Day hike
Features:
Wildflowers blooming
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Mudholes
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I am very pleased to report this beautiful trail is now completely snow-free! The is a great hike t...
I am very pleased to report this beautiful trail is now completely snow-free! The is a great hike to use as a barometer for your fitness: It's difficult enough to provide a moderate challenge for experienced hikers, but not so difficult that those who are a little out of shape won't be able to complete it (though it's certainly not easy). Overall, it's in outstanding shape. There a few small muddy sections here and there, but nothing to be at all concerned about.
I don't know of very many trails like this that are hike-able this early in the season. The elevation is just low enough that the snow usually melts fairly quickly, but high enough that there are good views. I would guess that about 3-4 or the 12 miles are along the ridge with very nice views of Crescent Lake and the Elwa Valley. Mt Muller is one of the nicest moderately difficult hikes that's open early in the season.
Mount Muller
— Jun 10, 2012
— Firecrapper
Day hike
Features:
Wildflowers blooming
Issues:
Snow on trail
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We rode horseback the entire Loop, being the first to break trail through
all the snow drifts and s...
We rode horseback the entire Loop, being the first to break trail through
all the snow drifts and slides to complete the entire loop in 5 hours. 5 other riders followed us the same day at various times so it is now safe to say you can travel the entire loop of 13 miles without having to backtrack. Bill Owen and Pamela Hardin were the scouts who broke trail so the summer can begin on such an enjoyable and challenging ride. Bikers beware, it isn't going to be easy for you for another week. Lots of carries. Day hike
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I was surprised to find only one car when I arrived at the parking area around 10:00am on a sunny Sa...
I was surprised to find only one car when I arrived at the parking area around 10:00am on a sunny Saturday on Memorial Day weekend. Just more delightful mountain views for me I guess.
The incline of the first 3-4 miles of the Mt. Muller loop (if you’re going clockwise) heading up to the ridge is just right – steep enough to get the blood pumping and sweat flowing, but never so steep to make me second guess my ability to complete the entire 13-mile loop. Once up on the ridge, the views are sweeping - Sol Duc Valley and Aurora Ridge immediately to your south, while off in the distance you get a great shot of Mt. Olympus, Mt. Tom and a sea of countless other peaks. Short stretches of 2-3 ft. deep snow started immediately after the side trail to the Mt. Muller summit. The troublesome stretches of snow didn’t start until shortly after Panorama Point when the trail moves to the forested north side of the ridge – as mentioned in Grounded’s trip report on May 17th. The wooded slope in this area is pretty steep, and you need to traverse the slope on slick semi-compact snow. I had trekking poles, which helped, and I just made sure to punch in solid steps. It is definitely manageable, and I was able to keep track of the trail pretty easily, but this did slow me down for a mile or so. In the entire 13-mile loop, I saw two other hikers and three people riding horses (they were turned back by the steep snow on the north side of the ridge). Definitely a great hike if you want some solitude. |
![]() Tigerlillies in the foreground of Mt. Olympus. Photo by Tomas.
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