Information about this hike provided in partnership with
Mountaineers Books.
Copyright © Dan A. Nelson/The Mountaineers Books Navaho Pass
Featured In:
Day Hiking: Snoqualmie Region,
by Dan A. Nelson and Alan L. Bauer.
A portion of all book sales from the links above benefits WTA and helps protect and maintain our trails. The Stafford Creek Trail climbs alongside the stream, passing through pretty, fragrant pine forest. Ponderosa pines down low are followed by whitebark pines and a few lodgepole pines. Intermingling with the pines are spruces, hemlocks, a few larches, and even a smattering of massive old Douglas-firs. Throughout the evergreen forests you'll also find a few deciduous species, including some stands of cottonwood, the random aspen or two, and a few alders. The trail sticks to the east side of the creek--floodwaters once devoured parts of the trail, but volunteer trail crews working with Forest Service professionals restored or replaced the flood-damaged sections. The trail climbs moderately for 4 miles, where it merges with the Standup Creek Trail. Go right at the junction as the trail turns steeper. Trudge for more than 1 mile up switchbacks that climb the headwall of the Stafford Creek valley. The thigh-burning climb is made tolerable, and indeed, enjoyable, by the vast expanse of wildflowers spread before and around you. The whole upper basin is blanketed in wildflower meadows--somewhat swampy meadows, as the shallow bench serves as a catch basin for snowmelt runoff, creating this uniquely rich environment for water-loving wildflowers at 5600 feet elevation. A half mile past these meadows, the trail crests Navaho Pass (elev. 6000 ft). Trails lead off in multiple directions from the pass, running east around Navaho Peak, west toward Earl Peak and Beverly Creek, and straight north down into the Ingalls Creek valley. The pass, though, is the perfect end of your hike. From here you'll enjoy a northern skyline dominated by Mount Stuart and the granite wall of the Stuart Range. To the south, look out over the long valley of the North Fork Teanaway to Mount Rainier and Mount Adams far in the distance. User-suggested Alternative Route: A somewhat longer (14.1 mile) and more energetic (4600' elevation gain) option starts at the Standup Creek trailhead reached by turning left from Stafford Creek road about 1/2 mile from the turnoff from N Fk Teanaway River road and driving a (rough) mile on an access road to the trailhead. On this route, the first 3/4 mile wanders fairly flat through Grand Fir forest and thick underbrush along the creek, then climbs steeply for an additional 3.5 miles to a junction with the Bean Creek trail 1391A, midslope in an open very dry forest of Whitebark pine and manzanita. From this junction the trail turns east and winds its way about another 3/4 mile to a fantastic overlook where the glory of the Stuart Range reveals itself across a pretty valley with lush meadows below and a red-rock escarpment to add counterpoint. Then (sigh) the trail from the ridge switches relentlessly down to the meadow, with a very rocky and sometimes a bit treacherous tread. The meadow rewards with sunny openings, a trickling stream, and very nice camps. At 5.9 miles from the Standup trailhead the trail joins with the Stafford Creek trail 1359, passes a surprising and beautiful marshy area (more really nice camps here)and then climbs to Navaho Pass (described above).
Driving Directions:
From Seattle drive east on I-90 to East Cle Elum, exit 85. Cross over the freeway overpass and turn right (northbound) on State Route 970. Cross the Teanaway River bridge, and in another mile turn left onto Teanaway Road. Drive north on Teanaway Road, veering right as it becomes first the North Fork Teanaway Road and then unpaved Forest Road 9737 at 29 Pines Campground. At the first road junction after crossing the bridge over Stafford Creek, turn right onto Forest Road 9703 (signed "Stafford Creek") and drive 2.5 miles to the Stafford Creek trailhead, found just after crossing Stafford Creek. Recent Trip Reports
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Navaho Pass
— Sep 24, 2011
— Chuck
Overnight
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The conditions were perfect. No wildflowers or berries, but the trails were dry and in good shape. We...
The conditions were perfect. No wildflowers or berries, but the trails were dry and in good shape. We passed 4 groups hiking down as we were going up and there were two other groups camped around the meadows that night.
Multi-night backpack
Features:
Wildflowers blooming | Ripe berries
Issues:
Bugs
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This was a beautiful backpacking trip. Evergreens dripping with brilliant green moss sprung up like islands in the waves of...
This was a beautiful backpacking trip. Evergreens dripping with brilliant green moss sprung up like islands in the waves of wildflowers lining the trail. Many butterflies accompanied the flowers, and there were some blueberries to be picked on the way up. We had a few problems with the other bugs (flies and mosquitoes), but some homemade spray (catnip oil and lemongrass) kept them from biting.
We camped next to a meadow close to the pass (it appears to be the highest place to set up a tent). There was water most of the way up Stafford Creek Trail and a stream near our camp, but not any at the pass or on the way up to the peak. The views of the Stuart Range and Mount Rainier were gorgeous -- definitely worth the steep hike from the pass to the peak. Met a few day hikers on the trail and there were two other tents at the meadow on Saturday night, but for the most part it was a solitary experience. There were a few mountain goat tracks, but no goats. Crickets and bumblebees made lovely background music to the mountain views. All in all a great trip. Overnight
Features:
Wildflowers blooming
Issues:
Mudholes | Bugs
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Surprised to see that we were the only one at the parking lot and trailhead. Beautiful clear and hot...
Surprised to see that we were the only one at the parking lot and trailhead. Beautiful clear and hot day. Elevation is gradual and trail is clear and well marked. Trail skirts Stafford creek most of the way up so there is plenty of places to get water, and you will need it on a hot day. Be sure to bring bandana and bug repellant because they are out in full! The HUGE biting horseflies were a constant nuisance throughout what would have been a perfect trip, but the beauty of the hike and the location is worth the trouble. As the description points out pay attention at about the 4 mile mark for the junction to either go right or left, stay on right to continue onto Navaho Pass. At this point the trail climbs steeply for the last mile and half until you reach the huge meadow where there are plenty of campsites for you to choose from. You can also set up camp at the junction where we saw a few nice spots with firepits. We camped near the meadows where there was a creek that run besides the campsite with mini waterfalls-almost too perfect!
At the meadow there are trails that continue to the pass and climb about 700-850 ft. The landscape changes dramatically as you climb and it reminded me of New Mexico and Utah - wide open and barren. Once you reach the pass you will be able to see Stuart Range and other mountains in the south: Rainer in particular. This is a great backpacking destination and easy enough for newbies to try. Day hike
Features:
Wildflowers blooming
Issues:
Bugs
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Pretty long hike on a sunny day, flat for most of the way until you get to the junction where...
Pretty long hike on a sunny day, flat for most of the way until you get to the junction where you can turn off right to Navaho Peak. Starts to get steeper from there on out, and as the trees start to disappear it can get pretty punishing. Ground is pretty loose and its pretty easy to slip.
Awesome views once you get to the top. The Stuart Range is right in your face and you have a great view of Mount Rainier if the view is clear. Probably the best views I've ever seen on a hike. Only complaint I have is that there was a lot of flies at the top. Plenty of safe water to drink also! Multi-night backpack
Features:
Wildflowers blooming
Issues:
Blowdowns | Overgrown
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Spectacular flowers and views and very little snow. However we did meet a few obstacles.
Day 1: Started at Esmeralda...
Spectacular flowers and views and very little snow. However we did meet a few obstacles.
Day 1: Started at Esmeralda Basin up over Longs Pass, down the other side about 1/2 way to Ingalls Creek there is are a couple of nice camping spots. Moderately buggy - but the flowers were spectacular. The trail down from Longs Pass is a dotted line on the map. Not at all hard to find - but quite steep (with 20 foot switch backs) on lots of slippery scrabble. The climbers use it all the time. Day 2. Day hike up to Stuart Pass. Beautiful flowers on the way -VERY buggy. We planned to pick up packs on the way back and head down Ingalls Creek to camp. If we had it to do over again we would have brought our gear down to the trail junction before heading up to the pass. Instead we had a pretty steep climb up and back before heading off for a campsite. Camped at Fourth creek. Crossing at Ingalls Creek looked harder and harder as we went down stream. It was doable (took shoes off and waded) at the trail junction. Did not look at ALL friendly at Fourth Creek. Did not attempt. Day 3. Checked out crossing at Hardscrabble Creek "in case" we couldn't cross at Cascade Creek. Looked not doable. High fast water, no logs. Crossed at Cascade Creek with no trouble. 2 perfectly placed logs and a series of boulders made it easy. Without them it would have been impossible. No way to avoid waist high fast water. The Cascade Creek trail was another story. TAKE A GPS OR ALTIMETER. This trail is EXTREMELY hard to follow. If we had read the previous post before we left we might have not chosen this route. Our route was an ascent instead of a descent (previous hiker). Lucked out by finding the trail head. It is obscured by 7 foot brush.... Lots of moving brush, climbing over large logs and then trying desperately to find the trail again. "Blowdowns" now has an entirely new meaning. Some sections everything is blown down and there are no blazes to follow. We ended up scouting over a hundred yards in various directions to find trail on several occassions. Other sections include traverses across steep soft scrabble where there is only the slightest hint of the trail. The three of us often branched out in small scouting missions to determine what might be animal trail vs. human trail... then over and over again we'd find ourselves lost - and gradually re-find the trail. As the other hiker noted the trail totally disappears when you enter the meadow. Totally. So there we were, hiking in meadow flowers up to our shoulders - trying desperately to find some semblance of trail. After many false moves and map consultations we finally decided we were too far north and followed the contour south hoping (praying) we would find the trail. We did - and it was pretty obvious by the time we picked it back up. We only had about 4 more "find the trail" parties after that. We were relieved to reach the top - 4.5 hours after we started (steady hiking) - but according to the map, only 2.9 miles further into our journey. It is slow going. If it doesn't get some trail work or a lot more traffic it will be lost. If you do decide to try it out (we obviously succeeded) it would be nice to bring some red plastic tape to help others find the trail where the blowdowns are so extensive and where erosion and wildness are winning. Maybe then others could keep the trail active through use. Navaho pass is quite spectacular (Maybe we were just really relieved to have finally made it!). Recommend camping in the flat area (obvious campsites with water) about half a mile or so below the pass... there isn't much else if you are headed towards Bean Creek. Day 4. Early morning day hike up to Navaho Peak. Spectacular views! Worth it. Flowers still glorious. Then back down, up trail 1369, then 1391( Bean Creek) toward Beverly Creek trail. Every pass had great views. Lots of meadows, flowers - and this part of the trip had few bugs. Camped at the intersection of the Beverly Creek and Fourth Creek trails. Day 5. Easy hike out to the road (trail 1399). This section was probably the least interesting of all of the pieces. Fewer flowers. Got to the road and within minutes got a ride back up to the car at Esmeralda Basin. Hiking partner counted 15 cars in 15 minutes (a Friday morning around 10:15). The whole trip was a wonderful loop - and except for the Cascade Creek trail- was great hiking. We saw 1 backpacker and 4 hikers the first day, 1 on the third day,1 on the 4th and 3 going in as we were coming out on the last day. Kind of surprising as this was one of the few really snow-free loops at the time. |
The view from Navaho Pass, by Hiker Jim.
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