Paralleled by a busy recreational road for much of its length, the frothing, tumbling, spectacularly beautiful Icicle Creek flows unmolested in deep wilderness at its upper reaches. The upper Icicle is more sedate than its canyon run downriver, trading heart-pounding rapids for soul-soothing ripples, steep, stark walls for lush flats of luxuriant old-growth forest, pavement for trail. A great hike for late spring, late fall, or lazy summer days, the upper Icicle invites outdoor adventurers of all levels.

In an impressive grove of towering cottonwoods, ancient western cedars, and gigantic Engelmann spruce, the wide and well-trodden path begins its upriver journey. Within five minutes (more if the big trees hold you captive), enter the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. This is one of the busiest trails in this wilderness, and hordes of hikers and horse packers turn it into a dusty thoroughfare by midsummer.

But in spite of the dust, the trail is nearly level, easy to walk, and ideal for fledgling hikers and budding backpackers. Traversing grove after grove of ancient giants and passing one gurgling creek after another, the way lethargically delves deeper into the wilderness. At about 1.5 miles notice a change in forest cover as lodgepole pine replaces spruce, fir, and cedar. Notice too that the creek is more audible. The reason is soon revealed as a pretty set of small falls comes into view. Here, just below the confluence with French Creek, is one of the most popular backcountry sites in the Icicle Valley, a perfect spot to call it a day if hiking with young children. Seek out sunning, snacking, soaking, and snoozing spots.

Beyond the falls and its busy campsites, cross French Creek (elev. 2900 ft) on a big bridge and come to a junction with the French Creek Trail shortly afterward. The way now hugs the Icicle, revealing some appealing swimming holes. At 1.9 miles the French Ridge Trail takes off left. To the right, Spanish Camp Creek, named for Basque sheepherders who once worked the Chiwaukum high country, tumbles into the Icicle.

Across lush flats the trail continues its easy way up the wilderness valley. At about 2.6 miles Frosty Creek adds its chilly waters to the Icicle. At about 4 miles the trail pulls away from the creek in a wide bottomland. With the river's babbling farther in the distance, listen now to soothing melodies from thrushes, wrens, warblers, and flycatchers.

At 5 miles come to a bridge spanning the Icicle just before a junction with the trail to Frosty Pass (elev. 3200 ft). This is a good place to turn around, but not before more lingering and lounging.