I completed an eight day solo (with dog) backpack trip - a variation on the Devil's Dome Loop - starting and stopping at East Bank (Ross Lake) Trailhead. My plan was to complete Doug Lorrain's West Pasayten loop, traveling from the TH up Jackita Ridge, the Devil's Ridge to the PCT, north to Castle Pass and west to Ross Lake. We soon found that life had other plans for us - but all worked out well in the end.
Weather that seemed threatening as i set out ended up being spectacularly beautiful: only the slightest drizzle early one morning, and none of the forecast thunderstorms. Skies were clear, temperatures mild - even overnight. Bugs were nonexistent. Trails were in good shape overall (but see below). Water was available - but not as plentiful as hoped. Smoke from the Perry fire limited visibility at Ross Lake but also helped make for some beautiful sunsets.
Day 1 saw us depart the East Bank trailhead and begin the easy stroll along Ruby Creek. There remains a large tree across the trail just before reaching the Canyon Creek trail junction. This tree proved a challenge for man and dog each carrying full 8-day packs. A possible route uphill and around the tree looked too steep and hairy, so we sought a route downhill, under and through the tree. This proved pretty hairy as well: my dog, time and again, questioned my leadership, but i hoisted her over and coaxed her under several pinch points. If i had to do it again, i'd be sorely tempted to just go straight down into the creek to wade around the tree. Continuing on the Jackita Ridge Trail, we went up up up, finally reaching the Crater Lake junction, then pushed on another mile to a nice campsite overlooking McMillan Park. The water there was not flowing much at all, but we found enough to get us through the night. We'd seen only a single party of 5 other hikers all day.
Day 2 started gently enough as we proceeded thru McMillan Park, then climbed the ridge and dropped down into Devil's Park. I'd spent a night there in '21: it remains a glorious peaceful place, with water flowing in the creek west of the meadow. The ensuing climb out of the park to the 6850' ridge had us facing that wild scree field on the north side: it's a hairy descent for sure but not (quite) as bad as it seems from the top. Water at the creek below, about 5750', with more after ascending (and descending) the next ridge, as you cross N Fk Devil's Creek. The climb up the next ridge brought us several blowdowns, many over 18" diameter, but all easy to get over or around. The sidehill at about 6200' was a welcome break from the climbing, and brought some great views, extensive blueberry fields, and 2 bear sightings. We made it to Devil's Pass and called it a day: we were both cooked, and i needed to stop for a gut-check on proceeding per plan. The Pass had some extensive logout work - by a recent PNT Performance Crew, I think. Water from the spring just east of the Pass was pretty skimpy but gave us enough, as i used my cookpot to scoop 0.3L at a time from a slowly refilling puddle. We'd not seen a single human all day.
Day 3 came sunny; the sleep helped restore my confidence. We packed up and headed east on the Devil's Ridge Trail, heading for Holman Pass and the PCT. Within 40 minutes of the Pass we passed a nice camp on the south side of the trail and shortly after crossed N Fork Canyon Creek: this had been my planned destination for Day 2 and would have provided a much better water source. Continuing east we made the long descent to wooded Deception Pass and then climbed up to Sky Pilot Pass - where we met the first people (JT and Suzie) we'd seen in 2d; they too were planning the Castle Pass - to - Ross loop: it was great to share insights with someone on this. Proceeding past a few decent water sources we then made it to Holman Pass and the PCT where we turned north, and a mile later crossed the creek draining the Goat Lakes basin, meeting a number of PCT thru-hikers also tanking up. We went a bit further north before pulling over for the night. I felt pretty good, but the dog was pooped and had developed some abrasions on her paw pads. Proceeding would require another gut check.
Day 4: Given my dog's fatigue and sore feet, i opted to re-route, choosing the lesser mileage and more certain trail conditions of Devil's Ridge and Devil's Dome rather than whatever the Castle Pass Trail might hold in store. I fitted her with the trail booties that had helped the day before, but after a mile of them flopping loose time and time again, we gave up the booties: the soft forest floor ahead made them a moot matter. There was modest traffic on the PCT but then none once back on the Devil's Ridge Trail - until we were caught from behind by 2 younger, longer legged guys who were completing a clockwise version of the Castle Pass Western Pasayten loop that we had been trying. Chatting with them was fun, and eased my FOMO on Castle Pass: while clearly doable, the route would have been a challenge for this man and dog. We continued to that camp we'd spotted the day before just west of the N Fork Canyon Creek crossing, where we called it good after about 9 miles.
Day 5 destination was a camp just west of Devils Dome, and milage would be a relatively short 6 miles. We took time to enjoy some morning before setting out, and made good time back to Devil's Pass. There were a number of large (≥12" diameter) and some small (<9") trees down across the trail beginning shortly west of the Pass: we counted about 60 downfalls within 1.5 miles of Devil's Pass, several of the gnarly variety, but all passable by going around (on well-beaten detours). The climb up to Devil's Dome was very exposed in the morning / early afternoon sun, with no waterflow since we'd left morning camp. The view on top is wonderful, but the heat had taken a toll on my dog and we quickly made our way down the west side of the Dome and found the camp that i'd used on my prior '21 trip. Water wasn't nearly as available as in '21, but we found some in a trickling creek south of the trail. We had camp to ourselves - hadn't seen anyone all day. The Perry fire west of Ross gave us some great sunset colors.
Given my dog's fatigue and sore feet and her willingness to continue following me these past few days, i felt that she deserved a rest day. So Day 6 was a Zero Day - and it was wonderful! We hung around camp (which also served as a plentiful blueberry source) as she slept most the day, and i caught up on some reading and writing. It was a great day to "just be" in the mountains, enjoying another day of glorious weather. And we didn't see another soul.
Day 7 we had an all-downhill trek into Ross Lake. I'd secured a permit for overnight stay at Devil's Junction campground. The views as we descended were spectacular: Jack Mtn just pops out in your face. Smoke from the Perry Fire stratified over the lake and thickened as we went down. I was surprised that NPS put me at the Boat CG rather than Hikers' (where i was in '21) and then pleasantly surprised to have a spacious campground to myself - with a nice privy, bear locker, beach access and picnic table. We saw maybe 6 boats pass in our first hour there - then not another for the remainder of our stay. Visibility was restricted by the smoke: we could not see across the lake until late in the day. Another zero people day.
Day 8 we were up early and made quick work of the hike south along Ross, up over Hidden Hand Pass, and back to the car. The forest as your cross Hidden Hand is wonderfully peaceful and serene. No real water between Roland Creek and Lone Tree Creek, after descending from the Pass. Another zero people day.
It was a great trip. The re-route was a difficult decision - but the right one. The Zero Day below Devil's Dome was a great capstone. The Devil's Dome Loop is definitely a keeper.
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