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Bogachiel River

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Featured In: Day Hiking: Olympic Peninsula, by Craig Romano.
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The Bogachiel River snakes through Washington's forgotten rain forest. No main roads run along this major Olympic river, nor penetrate its wild valley. There are no visitors centers here either. No interpretive trails or developed campgrounds amid the towering spruce and fir. There's nothing fancy here at all-just a quiet backcountry trail through pure rainforest wilderness.

Your first impression of the Bogachiel River Trail may have you wondering, "I thought this was a wilderness trail through old-growth rain forest."It is-just give it a couple of miles. The trail begins in a dark forest of second growth. It was logged during the 1940s in the name of national defense.

Descend on a muddy track to Morganroth Creek. During the rainy season (most of the year) expect to get your feet wet crossing it. A small interpretive path leads left to a marshy area. The Forest Service has plans to extend this trail into a small loop. The main trail continues right, intersecting then utilizing an old road bed for some level and easy strolling.

At 1.5 miles come to the national park boundary. Pooches are not permitted beyond this point. Along rich bottomlands the trail brushes up against the river. At 2.5 miles negotiate a steep bluff (with the help of a rope) to skirt an area claimed by the river. Drop back down to river level and get your feet wet again hopping across Mosquito Creek. Big trees finally appear (I told you it gets better). Despite light use, the trail is in remarkable shape, thanks in large part to the tireless work of the Washington Trails Association. But while only a handful of hikers trek up this valley each year, the elk that pass through are legion. Keep your eyes out for these elegant beasties.

Ancient giants dwarf you as you continue up the trail. Except for the river's soothing churn and sweet serenades from resident wrens, the primeval forest is quiet. Lichens drape overhead. Fern boughs burst open from the forest floor. Dew-dripping moss clings to everything. Only the glaucous sheen of alder bark breaks the deep green of the rain forest.

After 6 miles of peaceful passage, you'll come to a junction with the Rugged Ridge Trail and a most inviting riverside camping area. This is a good spot to turn around, or if inclined, spend the night. During low water flows, venture out onto the gravel banks of the river. During downpours admire the torrents from the elevated embankment.

Driving Directions:

From Forks travel south for 5 miles on US 101. Turn left (east) onto Undie Road, located directly across from the entrance to Bogachiel State Park. Follow this road for 5.6 miles to a gate and the trailhead (the last 2 miles are unpaved and during heavy periods of rain are prone to flooding and developing giant mud holes).

Recent Trip Reports

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There are 21 trip reports for this hike. See all trip reports for this hike.

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Bogachiel River — Aug 06, 2011 — hammertoes

Multi-night backpack

Issues: Bugs

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Hiked up to Flapjack. Some of the best old growth in the state. The trail is in good condition. Lot's...

Hiked up to Flapjack. Some of the best old growth in the state. The trail is in good condition. Lot's of mosquitoes, bring deet! They died down at dusk, though. Saw river otters. Fishing was OK, caught several small trout. Saw lots of signs of elk, bear, cougar, but didn't see any actual animals. Great getaway!

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Bogachiel River — Jun 13, 2011 — rainrunner

Overnight

Features: Wildflowers blooming

Issues: Blowdowns | Mudholes | Water on trail

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Hiked up to Hayak shelter and stayed the night there. First time on the Bogachiel trail, very nice experience....

Hiked up to Hayak shelter and stayed the night there. First time on the Bogachiel trail, very nice experience. Trail was in great condition overall, very little blowdown and not too muddy overall considering the time of year. Didn't see much wildlife, just a few elk and no bears or bear tracks. I did see some spawner steelhead hanging out in the North Fork, which was pretty cool. Don't fish on them though, they are guarding their redds and resting up for the trip back out to sea. If you do this trail it is definitely worth crossing to the far bank and hiking the short section of trail that ends at Flapjack camp. The forest is open and level on that side, though there is a tough section where some trees fell right on top of and parallel to the trail. You will also get wet with 2 river crossings and 3 stream crossing, but it is well worth it.

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Bogachiel River, Mink Lake — Jun 04, 2011 — PNA

Overnight

Features: Wildflowers blooming

Issues: Blowdowns | Bridge out | Mudholes | Water on trail | Snow on trail

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Bogachiel trailhead - Sol Duc hot springs overnight I started out on a beautiful Saturday for a quick trip to escape...

Bogachiel trailhead - Sol Duc hot springs overnight

I started out on a beautiful Saturday for a quick trip to escape the concrete jungle of Port Angeles. I had a late start and didn't get hiking until 11:30. There were 4 or 5 cars at the trailhead, but most people just on short walks. I had a fairly nice walk up to "fifteen mile" camp. But that is one soggy trail. Somehow I don't remember that from the other time I did it, at least a decade ago. But there are big mudholes, small streams running down the trail, puddles, more boot-sucking mud, more streams... It's definitely enough to slow you down. Bring good boots for wading through slop. I passed one group that day, and met a couple at the bridge just past 15-mile the next morning. Snow is pretty solid at 2000', and continued until about 3000', below Mink Lake in the Sol Duc valley. It was a nice hike, but more work than I was planning on, and I think I'd wait a while for things to melt and dry some.

Trail conditions follow, then interesting "natural stuff":

Any streams not mentioned could be rock-hopped across, one way or another; not always easily.

Bogachiel TH- Rugged Ridge Tr

--8 trees down, mostly small, nothing difficult

Rugged Ridge - Warkum Creek

--bridge twisted downstream shortly after Rugged Ridge Tr. ~4' span on wobbly log to reach end of bridge
--a few small logs down, 2 worse than usual just before Warkum Cr.

Warkum Creek - 15 mile

--not many logs down here, but I lost track; nothing difficult
-- 15 mile shelter in decent shape, but only one small tent site

15-mile - Hyak Creek

--one piece of particularly bad old boardwalk
--Hyak shelter in decent shape; one wooded campsite, large lumpy meadow
--Hyak creek - can be crossed on a small log, a long (8') stick helps balance
--the next creek has a log crossing, as well

Hyak Cr - Ring Lake Cr

--31 logs down (2' or more); first two a little difficult (on top of each other), then later there is a big patch of downed trees and branches, where this has obviously happened before. One root wad upturned on the trail also.
--first snow near Ring Lake Cr.

Ring Lake Cr - 21-mile

--5 logs down, one root wad upturned under the trail
--21-mile creek can be crossed fairly easily on either of 2 relatively high-altitude log crossings. The better log is about 12' above the water, so may be daunting for some.
--21-mile has substantial snowcover, not sure if tenting feasible
--shelter appears to have collapsed years and years ago

21-mile - E Fk Bogachiel crossing

--7 logs down
--neither the creek just before the E Fk Bogachiel, nor the river itself were too difficult to cross. Both were melted out, but you can find a way down to the water to cross.

E Fk Bogachiel - Mink Lake

--Complete snow cover, more or less
--all lower elevation streams could be crossed on a snow bridge (with some scouting) or with snowshoes on short, soft logs
--snowshoes were useful at times, but on steep parts, particularly sidehill (which there is a lot of if you try to follow the trail) I often took them off
--following the ridge crest, rather than the trail, seemed less efficient
--on a relatively warm day, the snow was firm in the shade, sunny parts could be pretty sloppy and loose, but were still crossable, even on slopes
--the old telephone line insulators on tress are handy for following the trail
--Blackwood lake is completely frozen over still, with only a little melting along the NE shore
--Mink Lake basin is fairly gentle, and open, allowing one to slip and slide and run through the snow downhill, without much worry of getting lost or coming to a cliff.
--Mink Lake shelter is completely snowbound. There is even 3' of snow on the roof still.

Mink Lake - Sol Duc

--trail has already been logged out - looks like a few small trees were down.
--the trail is pretty wet for this trail, but sure a lot drier and less muddy than the Bogachiel

Pretty nice spring wildflowers were blooming: at least 4 saxifrage species, spring beauty, oxalis, yellow violets, salmonberry, trillium, a few Streptopus, Mimulus, Scouler's Corydalis, Hooker's fairy bell (best trail I know for that), buttercups, goatsbeard (still very early), veronica, starflower, and earliest bunchberry. And, I think, some Coptis asplenifolia. On the descent there is a Caltha blooming in wet melted out areas around the elvation of Mink Lake, and trillium and some Calypso orchids below Mink Lake. I'd really hoped to see Erythronium revolutum, which I've seen in the upper Bogachiel before, but I think it may have been under snow still. Or I just missed it...

As for animals, I saw robins, winter wrens, Steller's Jays, a toad, numerous hummingbirds, 3 dippers at Warkum Creek (probably a nest nearby, I'm guessing, but I couldn't find it), some (hairy?) woodpeckers, a garter snake, a group of about 9 elk, a junco nest w/ 3 eggs next to the trail, and lots of elk tracks everywhere.

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Bogachiel River — Apr 30, 2011 — tufguy1000

Overnight

Features: Wildflowers blooming

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Wow what a perfect weekend in the Olympics at Bogachiel. The Five of us set out early Saturday with plans...

Wow what a perfect weekend in the Olympics at Bogachiel. The Five of us set out early Saturday with plans to make camp at either Bogachiel or FlapJack, The whole weekend was just perfect weather, and the bugs weren’t a problem although we had the 100% deet spray. We only saw one other group of backpackers the whole time. There were some blow downs and washouts but we're not complaining besides where's your sense of adventure. Now some of the trail reports don’t mention much on fast elevation change but there’s a spot that without trekking poles requires you to use the rope as it’s almost straight up, good stuff though! The only minor thing I would like to see added is some point of reference as to where Bogachiel campsite is and or an approximate to how many miles you've gone. Although it’s not that important still would be nice. We met up with "Bogachiel Beth" on the trail, a very knowledgeable woman who has dedicated the last 20 some years to maintaining this trail. She lives right of the trail for 3-4 months of the year. (Talk about off the grid!) Pending weather I promise you'll love it!

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Bogachiel River, Little Divide, Deer Lake, Bogachiel Peak — Jul 19, 2009 — Ladyblade

Multi-night backpack

Features: Wildflowers blooming | Ripe berries

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My husband and I started our 6 day trip at the Bogie TH on Sunday evening. The first 8...

My husband and I started our 6 day trip at the Bogie TH on Sunday evening. The first 8 miles were flat, easy, and smooth with just the one spot where you have to use the rope to scramble up an old washout. Lots of berries and bugs. We camped on the riverbed the first night where there is a go-around a blow down. You just follow the flags along the river bed a short ways and hop back up onto the trail. I can't remember where exactly, but there was a hornets nest just off the trail nestled in among the roots of a tree on the first day. Just be cautious where you place your trekking poles.

Second day, things got a little more mucky and shrubby. Inbetween 15 mile shelter and Hyak, the salmonberries have overtaken the trail. This should be solved in a couple of days per Ranger Stu whom informed us that a crew will be in in a couple of days to clean things up a bit. Also, somewhere between Flapjack and Spawner Creek, there is a hornets nest RIGHT on the edge of the trail! Someone marked it from the west side with lichen and a piece of paper saying "BEES!" with a stick holding it down on the trail (Bless you!) so we were prepared. The washout at Spawner Creek is a mess right now. Once you cross the creek, DON'T follow the trail up. Follow the edge of the river bed and cross the mouth of the washout. There will be a couple of small cairns and an orange tag to show you where to scramble up the hill back up. Once up on flat ground, just head thru the woods towards the trail. There is no such marking if you are going west, or if there is, we couldn't find it. Hopefully, this will be fixed soon.

Flapjack Camp still is a very nice camping spot, 15 mile is small, dingy, and you have to camp practically on the trail, but Hyak is very nice. It has two old fallen & falling down privies that I hope don't end up being huge holes in the ground when they rot away. Be careful of animal holes in the meadow.

Third day we stayed put until noon, giving my feet a break. More salmonberries to fight, marshy muck to plod thru, and route finding. This trail is proving its worth as a slight challenge, nevermind that we have seen no one since we hit the Park boundary two miles in. We get to see a bear that we startle out of the berry bushes, it heading up a hill to our right, only pausing in its flight to take a quick glance back at us. Very, very cool! It took us over three hours to go three miles, but we got to 21 Mile shelter still with energy, but we didn't have our reservation for Deer Lake until the following night and didn't know about any other camp spots or water after 21 Mile. There are a couple different spots to pitch a tent at 21 Mile. One right next to where the shelter has fallen down, and a decent spot a few yards up to the left. There is a spot there in front of a nurse log and a smaller, more private spot behind that.

The fourth day we headed up early, hoping to make the elevation before the temps rose. There is a cairn at a water source which we took to mean that this is the last good water source before Deer Lake. We had heard of the lack of water at this part of the trail, so we had filled up our bottles and carried extra from a creek just down from that. It is good to know that it is marked, though. We also found a camp just a ways up from the last water source and a little off the trail. Looks to be a camp frequented by work crews as there was split wood and an old rotting pair of work gloves. There is a creek bed behind that where a seasonal creek may run, but it was dry today.

We kept heading up and popped out at the Little Divide. Wow! Just...wow! Major flower show going on and the views were awesome. The snow is all gone and the trail is in great condition. The trip to Deer Lake was uneventful, but all the flowers out made it a slow trip for all my photo taking and just enjoying the sights. Getting into Deer Lake, Ranger Kevin recommended Camp Site#6, which was one we were hoping to get. It was still empty and we set up camp in one of the most private spots. There was a huge meadow behind us and no noise from other groups could reach us. Ranger Kevin aslo mentioned that we has just missed a huge herd of goats that had come thru. Probably a good thing...Fish looked to be plentiful and hungry. Maybe good fishing here?

Fifth day, we left the tent and just took our essential gear to day hike to Bogie Peak. Plenty of views and flowers!! Lot of exposure here and I was glad to have brought extra sunscreen. We carried extra water, though there was a few spots from snow melt we could have gotten water. Better safe than sorry. There was only a itty bit of snow on the trail and it is probably gone by today. The trail is perfect and swift. We did chose to climb Bogie Peak via a trail that was not marked and was a bit hand over hand scrambling to get up. Nothing major, but we came down the actual marked path which we would have found if we had gone around the Peak and came in from the other side. Much, much easier. The views here were worth the work, though. I had never seen the 7 Lake Basin before and to be able to turn around and see the Hoh Valley and the top of all the mountains was extremely breathtaking.

On the last day, we headed out to Sol Duc TH. Down hill all the way, Canyon Creek has 3 marked camp sites along the trail. Not sure if they are in the quota area or not, but a nice option if you come in late and can't make it to Deer Lake before dark. We opted for a nice after hike soak in the pools and a snack at the diner. They have beer and good onion rings!!

Notes: Black flies were almost worse than the skeeters. I recommend deet. Lots and lots of bees. We had no problems, but bring an Epipen if you are at all allergic. Most our issues with the trail should be solved when crews go in to bushwhack and tidy up, but this is an ongoing problem with the trail. I really hope it doesn't fade away, the trail itself is a wonderful way to access the High Divide and offers true solitude. Please hike this trail and don't let it disappear! Berries are plentiful right now, including the most awesome blackcaps. Yum!

Link to photo slideshow:

http://outdoors.webshots.com/slideshow/573733552DHZXeD

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