Not another soul to be seen on this hike, not even another vehicle at the trailhead. We went about 3-4 miles in before turning back. The guidebook states you might get your feet wet crossing one or two creeks. We got our feet wet on about half-dozen occasions, including the last quarter-mile where the trail itself was a stream, often at least ankle deep (see picture.)

A couple of creek crossings would've been waist deep. Thankfully there was one well maintained log bridge (at morganroth creek) and then shortly after, an informal blow over of dubious safety that we were able to use on another creek.

While the hike delivered on it's promised solitude, we aren't sure that this is the best all-season hike, unless you're okay with wet feet throughout. It was totally gorgeous and serene, with wonderful fall colors. We also saw a woodpecker, crane, and on our way out a herd of elk crossing the road. For us... worth it!

My experience on the Bogachiel River trail is as described by the WTA. Mostly. The trail is exceptionally clear for one that apparently gets little use. We (my wife and I) saw one group of hikers coming out as we were going in and a couple of small encampments a few miles into the trail but after a couple of miles we never saw signs of anyone else. And probably for good reason.

If you are going here looking for lots of wild flowers, go elsewhere. Maybe they would have been blooming in more favorable weather. It was overcast the first day, raining the second and idiotic the third. I'm not sure that idiotic is actually a type of weather pattern, but let's pretend.

We made it to the trail in time for the annual migration. No, not elk. The majestic banana slug. They are as majestic as they are formidable. The little beasties are everywhere. Also, they seem to change color as you gain elevation. Bright yellow down low and more of an olive drab up higher. We never did see much in the way of fauna aside from the invertebrate variety with the exception of quite a few ptarmigan. Even one with about 8 chicks hiding underneath her. These birds will lie in wait, out of sight amongst the brush, until you are close by and then, with a shockingly loud popping of feathers, will burst forth and scare the living crap out of you. Fair warning.

We spent the first night at Flapjack along the river and it was a very nice spot. We were able to build a small fire and sleep with the sound of the river. All in all a pleasant night.

Up to this point the trail has been clearly defined though very, very muddy and wet. From this point on the trail continued to be very, very muddy and wetter. The Jimmy Cliff song; Many Rivers to Cross kept popping into my head. I finally realized that once you accept that your feet are going to be completely soaked, regardless of the waterproof claims of your boot manufacturer, the happier you will be. Because, as in the song, we had many rivers to cross and could not find a way over. So we went through. It's a lot more liberating than it sounds.

The second night we stayed at 21 mile and set up camp in the beginnings of a downpour. It rained steadily and hard all night and into the next day. Putting on cold wet boots is unpleasant. Luckily I brought a pair of five finger shoes as a back up of sorts. About an hour later I was convinced I would end up losing one of those individually wrapped toes to frostbite and decided that wet boots with wool socks was really the way to go. A little further up the trail and my choice would have been made for me. You start to hit little patches of snow, then bigger patches and then all of a sudden the trail disappears and you are left with nothing but snow. I don't know that we were the first ones to go through here this season but there was no evidence that any others had. We had a map and compass but with the downpour, general lack of visibility and extremely slippery slope, we were having a hard time maintaining a consistent track. We also had a gps but couldn't get an accurate reading because of the cloud cover and thick canopy of trees as well as being on the side of a steep ridge. In any case it was not a good time. The snow disappears for a while but at this point we have no idea where the trail is supposed to be and we are just on the side of a very steep hill. We pinpointed our location as best we could and literally climbed on hands and knees from tree to slippery tree up the slope to the crest of the ridge. The other side of the ridge looks like a steep ski slope and with the constant rain the snow is not particularly stable. At this point I'm convinced that one or both of us is going to break a leg or ankle or simply glissade several hundred feet and get smashed into a crumpled mess against one of those monumental old growth beauties.

We made it very slowly down to the small lake at the top of the basin that contains Mink Lake without doing any permanent damage to our bodies. There was a lot of falling and bruising but thankfully and miraculously nothing serious. This again is where having boots so full of water you could fill your nalgene bottle with them actually came in handy. From here we still could not find the trail and it is all marsh land and streams and creeks and pools and swamps. Your feet are as wet as they could possibly be, walk on.

We finally did find the trail and walked an uneventful final two and a half miles down to the Sol Duc Resort where our car awaited us and made the long drive home.

I know this sounds like a miserable experience and a negative trail report but in all fairness the first two days were very nice and enjoyable. I would have loved to see some wildlife but I don't doubt it was there. I probably walked past dozens of elk and bear but was concentrating too much on my foot placement to notice them. There were tracks and signs of both bear and elk all along the trail. I also would have liked better weather but it is a rain forest after all.

If you are planning to do this hike before the snow melts make sure you have a good map and compass or gps and know how to use them and microspikes or crampons. Yaxtrax won't cut it. All joking aside, the microspikes were one of two things that unquestionably made the difference between walking out of there or...not. The other was my wife who was pushing me when I was ready to give up and rock solid when I was beginning to panic. Because, believe me, I was beginning to think I might not get out of there. I guess that's what I should expect from an army officer.

Bottom line: If you go, be prepared. We were prepared and it still was very difficult. Accept early on that your feet are going to be completely soaked and it will make the going much more enjoyable. Just march right through those creeks. Accept that you will be wet in general. Bring some kind of traction device for your shoes. You won't need them until about mile 25, but after than they will be absolutely necessary. I've never liked using trekking poles but after this trip I am a convert. Slippery conditions and maneuvering over and around thick shoe stealing mud was made a whole lot easier with the use of them. Bugs weren't really a problem but it was raining a lot. Expect to have endless amounts of spiderwebs laced across your face. Or take someone tall with you and make them walk in front.

Hiked up to Flapjack. Some of the best old growth in the state. The trail is in good condition. Lot's of mosquitoes, bring deet! They died down at dusk, though. Saw river otters. Fishing was OK, caught several small trout. Saw lots of signs of elk, bear, cougar, but didn't see any actual animals. Great getaway!

Hiked up to Hayak shelter and stayed the night there. First time on the Bogachiel trail, very nice experience. Trail was in great condition overall, very little blowdown and not too muddy overall considering the time of year. Didn't see much wildlife, just a few elk and no bears or bear tracks. I did see some spawner steelhead hanging out in the North Fork, which was pretty cool. Don't fish on them though, they are guarding their redds and resting up for the trip back out to sea. If you do this trail it is definitely worth crossing to the far bank and hiking the short section of trail that ends at Flapjack camp. The forest is open and level on that side, though there is a tough section where some trees fell right on top of and parallel to the trail. You will also get wet with 2 river crossings and 3 stream crossing, but it is well worth it.