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Trip Report

Wenaha River Trail, Smooth Ridge, Crooked Creek, Oregon Butte, Mount Misery, Turkey Creek, Panjab Trail, Melton Creek Trail & Tucannon River Canyon — Sunday, May. 29, 2016

Eastern Washington > Palouse and Blue Mountains
Why didn't I pack any butter!?
Trail conditions Tucannon River Trail: ~105 blow-down that have mostly been limbed and are easy to cross. Jelly Spring Trail (aka bear creek trail): ~130 blow-down (mostly ez but not limbed) from the Tucannon River to Diamond Peak. Melton Creek Trail: ~30 blow-down (mostly ez) from Diamond Peak to junction with Crooked Creek, brushy at times but good tread. Crooked Creek Trail: In good condition mostly through a burned area from Melton Creek Junction to Wenaha River. Crooked Creek can currently be crossed at the Wenaha River junction on a sketchy log with dry feet or via a knee deep ford. Wenaha River Trail: In good condition through burned area from Crooked Creek Jct to Smooth Ridge Jct. Smooth Ridge Trail: Trail is often little more than an elk path and frequently obscured by blow-down and vigorous new growth through burned area from the Wenaha River to Weller Butte. I often lost the trail only to find it again after a minute or two. Map, compass and route finding skills necessary for this section. Occasional blow-down from Weller Butte to the Jct with the Mt. Misery Trail at Oregon Butte. Mt. Misery Trail: A couple blow-down and intermittent snow to cross from the Teepee TH to Oregon Butte. A Prius at the Teepee TH suggests the road is free and clear. Trail also had snow near Diamond Peak. Turkey Creek Trail: ~70 blow-down (many large unlimbed trees) that are difficult to cross. ~10 creek crossings, all of which could be rock/log hopped with dry feet. Panjab Trail: Excellent condition. Trip report I went backpacking in the remote Tucannon-Wenaha wilderness this memorial day weekend with the goal of visiting the highest (Diamond Peak and Oregon Butte) and lowest points (Tucannon River and Wenaha River bordering the N and S ends of the wilderness) as well as taking in some of the trails through the heart of the region. I started Friday afternoon from the Tucannon River TH and made it up to Diamond Peak in time to make camp and watch the sunset. Many fungi (including morels) were fruiting along the trail between the Tucannon River and Jelly springs. Why didn't I pack any butter!? On Saturday I rambled downhill on the Melton Creek Trail which was pleasant and had views of the deep canyons of the Blue Mountains as well as the Wallowas in the distance. I surprised a couple deer and two bears in the morning and made it down to the Jct with the Crooked Creek trail by lunch time. Unfortunately, the Melton Creek trail is burned on the lower sections and stays too high above the creek to get water and shade on a hot day. Upon reaching Crooked creek I promptly took a dip, made a pot of coffee, and then passed out in the shade along the bank for a bit. I followed Crooked Creek down to the Wenaha River in the afternoon where I encountered a herd of goats on the hillside about 100 feet above the trail. I continued along the Wenaha to Fairview Bar and camped on the bank. The established campsites all burned in the recent fire and did not appear pleasant. The Wenaha Trail looked like it receives little use beyond the junction with Smooth Ridge and I'm curious what its like farther upstream and how far the burn extends. Next time I suppose... Sunday morning I got going early in order to head up Smooth Ridge before it got too hot. Climbing Smooth Ridge above the Wenaha River as the sun rose was stunning. Pictures don't do it justice. The Smooth Ridge Trail travels through burn area almost to Weller Butte. I have to admit that I enjoy hiking recent burns (in the morning and evenings; they're too hot mid-day). The contrast of charred wood and soot against vibrant new growth always makes me smile. The Smooth Ridge trail kept disappearing and reappearing on me and I had to keep my map handy to frequently confirm that I was going the correct direction. The major burn area ended just before Weller Butte and coincided with massive wild flower displays in the high meadows. I had planned to take a break at Weller Butte to eat my lunch but there were four bears grazing in the meadow below the Butte. Two were hanging out on the trail so I waited for them to wander off and made sure I was a bit further along into the woods before enjoying my Snickers bar. :) The views along this section of the ridge were great and I never needed to carry more than a liter of water between springs/creeks. McBain spring had particularly cold and delicious water gushing from it. mmmmm! I made my second and third coffees of the day at the Oregon Butte lookout and enjoyed the views before rambling down to Teepee TH and then down the Turkey Creek Trail to my bicycle which I had tossed in the trees near the Panjab TH. I was pooped by this point but managed to ride my bike back to the Tucannon TH in time to see the hills turn purple and jump in the river before it got dark. All together I encountered more bears (7) on this loop than humans (4). That's a ratio I enjoy. Thoughts on hiking in the Blue Mountains This trip was as much a reconnaissance as anything else since there is very little information in guide books and on the internet concerning hiking and backpacking in the Blue Mountains. I typically think of the Blue Mountains as hot and dry, because they are. However, it seems that there are many trails that follow creeks that flow all summer long. Hiking along Crooked Creek was really pleasant and I think next time I do a loop in this area I will hike Crooked Creek or Third Creek from the Mt. Misery Trail rather than Melton Creek. The Turkey creek trail is apparently the secret hikers trail to make an excellent loop from the Panjab TH (Panjab TH -> Indian corral -> Oregon Butte -> Teepee TH -> Panjab TH; or reverse). The Turkey Creek trail stays next to the babbling creek the whole way and has some of the best old-growth I've seen in the blue mountains. The trail is unmarked (few trail's and junctions in the Blue mountains have signs) and starts from a campsite near the port-o-john at Teepee TH and connects with the Panjab Trail a mile from the Panjab TH. Turkey Creek Trail is currently in poor condition with lots of difficult blow-down to navigate. It had a couple campsites along it. Now that I've seen some of the east side of the Tucannon-Wenaha, I'm curious about the west side and look forward to exploring the upper portion of the Wenaha River and trails connecting with it (slick ear, grizzly bear ridge, twin buttes, round butte, sawtooth, the possibilities go on...
Crooked Creek near Wenaha River
The goat on the right has a radio collar
Bears feasting at Weller Butte
Did you find this trip report helpful?

Comments

Jealous!

I've done a couple really similar loops down in the Blues, but never this early in the year. I couldn't get to Oregon Butte due to snow just a few weeks ago, but reading this makes me think it's time to try again. Looks like an awesome backpack!

Posted by:


Holly Weiler on May 30, 2016 07:24 PM

Froof_D_Poof on Melton Creek Trail, Tucannon River Canyon, Wenaha River Trail, Smooth Ridge, Crooked Creek, Oregon Butte, Mount Misery, Turkey Creek, Panjab Trail

Thanks Holly! Your trip reports provided a lot of inspiration and ideas for me. It's definitely a good time. The glacier lilies are still going at the elevation of Oregon Butte.

Posted by:


Froof_D_Poof on May 30, 2016 07:54 PM

Nice!

Great trip report. We've been planning a late June overnight from Panjab TH to Dunlap Springs, over to Oregon Butte, and then back down Turkey Creek. We day hiked Turkey a few years ago and had a wonderful time, but may skip that this time thanks to your tip on all the blowdowns. I enjoyed seeing your photos of the bighorn sheep and bear. We hiked up the Wenaha from Troy in May and saw a nice herd of bighorn a few miles in. I believe they are enjoying the fresh green grasses in the burn zone.

Posted by:


palousehiker on Jun 18, 2016 12:23 PM

excellent write up

Hey thanks for such a good trip report. I'm looking to do a version of this loop (including the bike portage) next week. I might cut down some of the mileage to spend more time taking photos. What map did you find most helpful? Did you print off the USGS topos?

Posted by:


jar.berg on Jun 25, 2016 07:20 PM

maps

I printed a handful of topo maps from the USGS site: http://viewer.nationalmap.gov/viewer/. I think I used the 1995 versions rather than the more current ones since they have more useful data on them. I also had a GPS which was reassuring on the smooth ridge trail since it disappears occasionally. Have fun out there!

Posted by:


Froof_D_Poof on Jun 27, 2016 08:35 PM

Posted by:


BYOC on Mar 27, 2017 04:23 PM

BYOC on Melton Creek Trail, Tucannon River Canyon, Wenaha River Trail, Smooth Ridge, Crooked Creek, Oregon Butte, Mount Misery, Turkey Creek, Panjab Trail

Do you know how many miles exactly from TeePee TH to Fairview Bar? My wife and I are planning on doing this route this year.

We've hiked the upper portion of the Wenaha quite a bit. The trail is in pretty good shape after Grizzly Bear/Slick Ear area. However, the crossing at the North Fork/South Fork/Elk Flat junction is pretty bad. Both forks have changed course. Fortunately, there are some large downed trees you can use as bridges. Very overgrown at the fork. Definitely wear pants if you go through there. I have it all marked on GPS if anyone need it.

FYI, unless they've cleared it since last year, don't attempt to use Butte Creek/Box Canyon in any loops. We tried to hike Twin Buttes to Butte Creek and then South to the Wenaha. The descent from Twin Buttes into Box Canyon was heavily burnt. Butte Creek trail no longer exists. It is severely overgrown and impassable without a machete.

Posted by:


BYOC on Mar 27, 2017 11:00 AM

BYOC on Melton Creek Trail, Tucannon River Canyon, Wenaha River Trail, Smooth Ridge, Crooked Creek, Oregon Butte, Mount Misery, Turkey Creek, Panjab Trail

I should add that when I say the upper portion of the Wenaha Trail #3106 is in pretty good shape, that was as of Fall 2016. I haven't been back yet this year.

Posted by:


BYOC on Mar 27, 2017 04:19 PM

Froof_D_Poof on Melton Creek Trail, Tucannon River Canyon, Wenaha River Trail, Smooth Ridge, Crooked Creek, Oregon Butte, Mount Misery, Turkey Creek, Panjab Trail

and i forgot to answer your question... From upper teepee TH I think it's about 2 miles to smooth ridge trail and then 17 down to fairview bar. the campsites at fairview bar are burned out and it was dusty/ashy when i was there. Ended up sleeping in a lumpy patch of grass on the river bank.

Posted by:


Froof_D_Poof on Mar 27, 2017 08:27 PM

BYOC on Melton Creek Trail, Tucannon River Canyon, Wenaha River Trail, Smooth Ridge, Crooked Creek, Oregon Butte, Mount Misery, Turkey Creek, Panjab Trail

Thank you very much! We'll probably make it a 3 night trip. We like to stop and take lots of pics, and take in the views, so we usually don't cover a lot of ground in one day. We've hiked the upper part of Smooth Ridge as far as Danger Point. I don't remember the # of the trail that branches off to the East there, but we planned to make a loop down to Coyote Creek, I think, and then back up another trail, which I think is called Grizzly Bear (but not the larger Grizzly Bear trail that starts at Twin Buttes TH). The trail that descends down to Coyote Creek was pretty non-existent. It was doable with GPS though. Unfortunately, when we got down to the creek, the vegetation and fallen trees were just too thick. So we had to call off the loop, make camp there, and go back out the way we came.

Anyhow...the part of Smooth Ridge I've been on is by far the most gorgeous trail I've hiked in the Blues. I can only imagine that the lower section that looks out over the Wenaha is even more breathtaking.

How well maintained is the trail after Weller Butte? We're thinking of camping the first and third nights in or around Lodgepole. How did that area look when you were there?

Thanks for the Tip about Fairview Bar. Since we'll probably have plenty of time and should still have some extra energy, maybe we'll hike further along the Wenaha to a better campsite. We hiked the upper portion of the Wenaha this last Fall down to where it meets the Grizzly Bear trail. It started to get pretty badly burned out as we got closer to Grizzly Bear, so I would imagine that that entire stretch between Fairview Bar and Grizzly Bear is all pretty badly burned. So we'll probably go East on the Wenaha down stream. Do you know if there are any decent campsites nearby in that direction?

Posted by:


BYOC on Mar 28, 2017 10:19 AM

Froof_D_Poof on Melton Creek Trail, Tucannon River Canyon, Wenaha River Trail, Smooth Ridge, Crooked Creek, Oregon Butte, Mount Misery, Turkey Creek, Panjab Trail

Smooth Ridge from Weller Butte to the Weneha is almost entirely through burned out area. There weren't too many areas that were overgrown or covered by fallen trees when I went through but it's only a matter of time before the dead wood comes down.

The Weneha trail going east is also burned out but if I recall I saw a tent where someone was fishing in that direction on one of the few bars you pass before getting to Crooked Creek so there are probably a handful of good spots in there. There are also campsites on the east side of Crooked Creek.

My post at: http://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8020876&highlight=tucannon#&pid=26782179933 has a map showing the extent of the burn in relation to the Smooth Ridge trail.

Lodgepole was pleasant and had plenty of water coming from the spring.

Posted by:


Froof_D_Poof on Mar 28, 2017 11:04 AM

Posted by:


BYOC on Mar 28, 2017 11:41 AM